193 
VOYAGE TO THE 
Island, the immediate neighbourhood of the shore is with¬ 
out fresh water; all, that is at all palatable, being brought 
from a place six miles inland: and the district is neither so 
populous nor so fertile as that of Hido, where we had re¬ 
fitted. One advantage, however, this side of the Island 
possesses ; it is not so often rainy as at Byron Bay, and, 
consequently, fitter for painting a ship; but for the grand 
articles of security, provisions, and water, Byron Bay is in¬ 
finitely superior, to say nothing of the great beauty of the 
scenery. 
On landing at Kowrowa we were very kindly received 
by Kapeolani and Nalii, the chiefs of this district, now one 
of the most civilised of the Sandwich Islands. These ex¬ 
cellent chiefs have set an example of wise and prudent re¬ 
formation among their followers. But the conduct of Ka¬ 
peolani with respect to the volcanic deities, and her heroic 
journey to Peli, are vouchers for all that can be said as to 
the wisdom and persevering goodness with which she has 
sought to improve her dependants. In her domains the 
son inherits his father's property, without even an appeal 
to the chief. Theft is punished, murder almost unknown, 
and infants enjoy all the benefits of parental love. The de¬ 
cency, cleanliness, and even elegance of the house, and the 
dresses of Nahi and Kapeolani give earnest of a speedy im- 
