12 MEXICO. 
fast of eggs and frijoles was prepared for us. The eggs, the beans, the 
bread, and a bottle of tolerable claret went down famously, with the sea- 
soning of our mountain appetites ; but I cannot say as much for the stew 
of mutton and fish fresh from the river. What with onions, and lard, and 
garlic, and chile peppers, I never tasted such a mess. We unanimously 
resolved to leave it as a precious ionn,e louche for some Spanish succes- 
sors, to whose bowels such a compound may bo more savory than to North 
Americans. 
Having dispatched this collation, we again mounted the diligence. I 
had seen an officer in command of some cavalry at the door of our inn, 
and recollecting that the succeeding post is represented to be one of the 
most dangerous on the route, I told our Yankee driver that I thought he 
might as well take my order for the escort, and a bundle of cigars, and 
try their effect upon the military. Whether it was the order or the Prin- 
cipes I am unable to say, but four dragoons were immediately mounted 
for our service. If the odor of that offspring of the " Vuelta de Abajo" 
still floats in the memory of the Lieutenant, and a well-supplied traveller 
happens hereafter to pass the Puente Nacional while he is in command, 
let me suggest that a similar gift may be received as thankfully and ef- 
fectively. When our driver cracked his whip, and the horses sprang off 
from the lassos of the grooms at full gallop, the " bold dragoon " stood 
with cap in hand, and I could catch a glimpse of a head bowing most 
gracefully in the midst of a cloud of fragrant smoke. 
Our route westward to Plan del Rio was through a mountainous coun- 
try of short and gradual ascents, in most of its characteristics resembling 
the one we had passed over during our morning ride. At length, a steep 
descent over a road as smooth as a bov/ling-green brought us to the village 
of Plan. The guard trotted after us leisurely ; the day had become 
cloudy and the scenery dreary, and the fear of robbers among these soli- 
tary wildernesses again came over us. We felt, indeed, more anxiety 
than since our departure. 
Mine host at Plan del Rio received us warmly, though his house was as 
cold and uninviting as the day. He speedily produced a smoking dinner 
of fowls and rice, to which I found myself able to do but little justice. 
But the dinner had been served — we had tasted it — a bottle of claret had 
been drunk, and though our appetites had been frugal, the nine of us were 
obliged to pay two dollars each for the service ! The two fowls which 
made the stew, cost, at the most, a real each ; the rice as muchjthe salad 
grew for the planting, and the claret stood our host about seventy-five cents 
the bottle.: so, for what, with service and cooking and original cost, taxed 
our Padrone not more than three dollars at the extreme, he had the modest 
assurance to charge our coach-load eighteen ! If this statement will induce 
any of our enterprising Yankee boys, who are whittling sticks for want 
of knowing how to turn an honest penny, to come out to Plan del Rio and 
set up an " Opposition Stage-House," I wish them joy of their under- 
taking. Jt absolutely requires, as I have shown, no capital worth men- 
