24 MEXICO. 
the Alameda — a quiet and retired garden walk to which the cavaliers and 
donzellas repair before sunset, for a drive in view of the volcanos of Ista- 
zihuatl and Popocatepetl, which bound the westward prospect with their 
tops of eternal snow. Near the centre of the city is the great square. 
It is surrounded on two sides by edifices erected on arches through which 
the population circulates as at Bologna. On the northern side is the 
Palace of the Governor, now filled with troops j and directly in front of this 
is the Cathedral, equal perhaps in size to that of Mexico, but, being eleva- 
ted upon a platform about ten feet above the level of the square, it is better 
relieved and stands out from the surrounding buildings with more bold- 
ness and grandeur. 
This church is, in all its details and arrangements the most magnifi- 
cent in the Republic ; and although not desirous to occupy your time with 
a description of religious edifices, yet, with a view of afFoi'ding some idea 
of the wealth of this important establishment in a country where the priest- 
hood is still very powerful, I will venture to remark on a few of those ob- 
jects that strike the eye of a transient traveller. 
It is about this Cathedral, I am told, that there is a legend of Puebla, 
which states that while in process of building, it gained mysteriously in 
height during the night as much as the masons had wrought during the 
day. This loas said to he the work of Angels, and hence, the city has ac- 
quired the holy name of "Puebla de los Angeles." Be this, however, as 
it may, the church, though neither exactly worthy of divine conception 
and execution, nor a miracle of art, is extremely tasteful, and one of the 
best specimens of architecture I saw in Mexico. The material is blue 
basalt ; the stones are squared by the chisel ; the joints neatly pointed ; 
and the whole has the appearance of great solidity, being supported by 
massive buttresses, and terminated at the west by lofty towers filled with 
bells of sweet and varied tones. Between the towers is the main entrance, 
over which there is a mass of sculpture of Scripture history in stone and 
moulded work. 
Entering by this portal, the edifice, though lofty and extensive, has its 
efFect greatly marred by the erections over the crypt, altar and choir, 
which fill the building to near its arched and elevated ceiling. As usual, 
the church is divided into three parts by rows of massive columns. Out- 
side of these, under lower arches, are the side aisles, and in the wall the 
lesser chapels are imbedded, as it were, between columns, and screened 
from the main edifice by a graceful railing and fanciful gates of wrought 
iron. A similar rail also incloses the choir and other portions of the build- 
ing ; and the whole, painted green, is picked out with gilded ornaments. 
From the centre of the vast dome depends the great chandelier — a 
weighty mass of gold and silver. It weighs tons. The sum at which it is 
valued I will not mention ; but you may judge of its extent and price 
from the fact that, when cleaned thoroughly some years ago, the cost of 
its purification alone amounted io four thousand dollars ! 
The great altar, too, is a striking object. It was erected about thirty 
years ago by one of the bishops of Puebla, and affords the greatest display 
