LETTER VII. 
LAST DAY'S RIDE TO MEXICO. 
Soon after our departure from Puebla,* we crossed a small stream 
spanned by a fine bridge, and commenced ascending by a very gradually 
inclined plain toward the Sierra Nevada. The mountains on our left are 
a stupendous range, standing out sharply against the bright blue sky, in 
the clear early light and pure atmosphere, their lower portions covered 
with dark pine forests, from which the conic peak of Popocatepetl, with 
its eternal snow, emerges majestically ; while, further north, towers its 
gigantic rival, Iztaccihijatl. Between us and the mountains is the 
Pyeamid of Cholitla. As we approach this elevated region, the countiy 
becomes well watered, and the plain is just sufficiently inclined for irri- 
gation ; the soil rich, the estates extensive, and cultivated with the greatest 
care. Immense herds of cattle are spread over the fields, and the land, 
now preparing for the winter crops, is divided into extensive tracts of a 
thousand acres, along which the furrows are drawn with mathematical 
accuracy. Among these noble farms a multitude of habitations are 
scattered, which, inclosing the numerous population necessary for labor, 
with the requisite chapels, churches, and surrounding offices, gleam out 
brightly with their white walls from among the dark foliage of the groves, 
and impress one as favorably as the multitude of tasteful villages that dot 
the windings of our beautiful Connecticut. 
We breakfasted hastily at San Martin, and for the next league our 
ascent was almost imperceptible. At length we crossed several fine 
streams, and the road, rising rapidly, struck more into the mountain. 
There was no longer any sign of cultivation, even in the dells, but the 
* It is nut over two or three hundred yards ftom the gates of Puebla, where most of the robberies of which I 
aftenvard heard during my residence in 3Iesico, occurred. A band of some fire, ten, ox a dozen men, armed, 
witli their faces covered with crape, usually stood waiting in the early dawn, for the dOigence. If there were 
armed foreigners in the coach, they would look in, consult a moment, and then ride oif. If the passengers 
were unarmed, and the boot of the vehicle looked heavy and temptmg, the result was the perfect sacking of the 
whole company. Their persons were first robbed and partially stripped as they descended from the door ; they 
were then made to lie down with their mouths on the ground— and their trunks were rifled. One lady (the 
present prima donna of the opera in Mexico) lost S6000 in doubloons and jewels, at this very spot— notwith- 
standing a guard had been promised by the authorities, and paid for. The instances, however, were innu- 
merable and unpardonable, while regiments of cavalry dozed, within a quarter of a mile, in a city almost 
under Martial Law. 
While I resided in the Capital, during Santa Anna's vigorous administration, he had some 65 or 70 garrotted. 
Two or three every week. This for a time struck terror to the band ; but 1 learn that lately they have again 
.aken to the road with renewed vigor. 
