42 MEXICO.' 
and crime. Is it wonderful, in a city with an immense proportion of its 
inhabitants of such a class, (hopeless in the present and the future,) that 
there are murderers and robbers ? 
In the Indian population which pours into the Capital from the lakes, 
1 must say that there is apparently more worth and character. You see 
them lolling about in their boats on the canals, and passing and repassing 
in their canoes, plying between the city and Chalco and Tezcoco. It is 
abeautiful sight to behold these tiny vessels skim like floating gardens to 
the quays in the morning, laden to the water's edge with the fruits, flow- 
ers and vegetables, that hide the skiflfthat bears them. 
The old houses in this neighborhood, rising out of the canals, the slug- 
gish waters, and the dark multitude of the better classes in fanciful dresses, 
remind one strongly of Venice. 
Skirting the canal, and leading to the plain which adjoins the Chenampas, 
or former floating gardens, is the Paseo de la Viga, a public drive fre- 
quented by the heau monde, both in coach and on horseback, during the 
season of Lent. Scarcely an afternoon passes, at that period of the year, 
that the observer will not find the canal covered with gay boat-loads of 
Indians, passing homeward from market, dancing, singing, laughing, 
strumming the guitar, and crowned with wreaths of poppies. I do not 
know the origin of the custom of wearing this forgetful flower ; but it is 
both a healthier and more poetic oblivion than that resorted to by many 
folks in other lands, after a day of toil. 
Turning once more westward, we again reach the great square. 
As we pass the front of the National Palace, from out of its main portal 
dash fifty gayly-caparisoned huzzars, followed by a coach richly decked 
with crimson velvet and gold, drawn by four white horses and driven by 
a Yankee coachman. Behind this dash fifty more huzzars, while at the 
side of the coach, six aid-de-camps rein in their mettlesome chargers. 
There is but one person in the vehicle. His dress is that of a General of 
division, with red facings and gold embroideries. He wears a number 
of decorations around his neck, while a medal blazing with diamonds, 
voted to him by the nation, rests on his bosom. His sword-handle is 
studded with diamonds, and his hand rests on a diamond-headed cane. 
He is uncovered, and, as he passes and bows gracefully to your saluta- 
tion, you recognize the President of the Republic ! 
The departure of the President from the Palace has attracted a crowd. 
The adjoining market, ever filled with people, pours forth its multitudes 
into the square. 
First, there is the Aguador or water-carrier, with his two earthen 
jars— o'ne suspended by a leathern belt thrown around his forehead and 
