VIRGIN OF REMEDIOS. 145 
The altar and the rail aroun i ii were, as usual, mad*^ of th'; precious 
metals, and aloft was placed an image of the Virgin, in a rich tibernacle. 
Candles were lighted around it, and some persons were chanting a servicr 
accompanied by the organ, while the Indians, in their rags, spread them- 
selves in kneeling groups over the floor. We passed into the sacristy 
where we met two Augustine monks, who were engaged in baptizing oi 
blessing a dirty Indian baby. The mother — in her torn tilma and petti- 
coat reaching to her knees — knelt before the padre holding the child, who 
amused itself by playing with his reverence's robe while the requisite 
prayer was recited. The father — in his leather breeches and torn 
blanket — meanwhile leaned against the wall, twirling his tattered hat, 
with open mouth, and eyes in a stupid stare of pious wonderment. As 
soon as the monk had concluded the service, he stepped forward, handed 
him a couple of cents, and both parents, with a sort of adoring kiss be- 
stowed on the friar's hand, departed. Our party comprised the only 
whites in that crowd of thousands. 
As soon as the padrecitos had got through their ceremonies over two or 
three more babies, and receiv'ed their copper fees, Mr. Black mentionea 
to them our desire to see the figure of the Virgin. A sacristan was imme- 
diately sent to conduct us to the room back of the altar, where, mounting 
to the tabernacle, and peeping cautiously around the shrhie, so as not to 
be seen by the congregation in the body of the church, we caught a 
glimpse of the figure. It is a beautiful waxen-faced doll, about a foot 
high, in a stiff satin dress, sticking out very much at the bottom as if with 
hoops, and the whole figure rests on an aloe of solid silver. I observed 
some pearls on the dress which had a very waxen look, together with 
some diamonds, that seemed quite as brilliant as if they had been manu- 
factured in Paris by the dozen. When I descended, I expressed my sur- 
prise to the half-breed attending us, who (with a very significant smile, 
and that indescribable motion of the long forefinger slowly from right 
to left, peculiar to the Mexicans, and which is as much as to say, " You 
know nothing about it,") explained the mystery. The real image was 
not there ! Diamonds, doll, pearls, petticoats, emeralds, and all the other 
finery had been taken to the Cathedral ; and he intimated, tliat in these 
revolutionary times so mi:ch wealth Avas more secure within hail of the 
palace sentinels, than air.id the lonely wastes of this mountain church. 
Besides which, he hinted that the present figure was hrndsoiner, newer, 
and, on the Avhole, good enough for the Indians ; who adcred it with quite 
as much fervor, and quits as successfully as the famed original. 
Wo sallied forth from the chapel as the mass commenced. Gradually 
the church began to fill with the half-naked Indian crowd. Deputations 
of natives from the diffeioat villages next arrived, bearing thfir off( wrings 
of flowers and wax candies to the Virgin; headed by a band of Indian 
musicians with their torn- om orum and flageolets, making a low c.ionot- 
onouii music. The ofi"e4ng5 were taken to tlie altar, under bennera 
made (if flowers : and af.er a wild dance of tl:e Indiang lo iheir music 
