A R A N C H . 189 
and bed, yet as there are none of these comforts in the house for me, I 
wrap myself in my serape on the hard settee, with full expectation of a 
night of sound repose. 
21*^ Septemler — Wednesday. We left Tetecala rather late this morn- 
ing, without other refreshments than a cup of chocolate and a biscuit, as 
our intention was to stop at the hacienda of Cocoyotla, where we arrived 
about 11 o'clock. 
We had no letter of introduction to Seiior Sylva, the proprietor; but 
we Were, nevertheless, most kindly received by him. He requested us to 
dismount, and to amuse ourselves by inspecting his garden and orange- 
grove while he ordered breakfast. 
This is a small, but one of the most beautiful estates in the iierra 
caliente. A handsome chapel-tower has recently been added to the old 
edifice ; a wing on broad arches has been given to the dwelling, and the 
garden is kept in tasteful order. 
Back of the house and bordering the garden, sweeps along a sweet 
sti'eam, some twenty yards in width, and, by canals from it, the grounds 
are plentifully supplied with water. But the gem of Cocoyotla is the 
orangery. It is not only a grove, but a miniature forest, interspersed 
with broad-leaved plaintains, guyavas, cocos, palms, and mammeis. It 
was burthened with fruits ; and a multitude of birds, undisturbed by the 
sportsman, have made their abodes among the shadowy branches. 
We sauntered about in the delicious and fragrant shade for half an 
hour, while the gardener supplied us with the finest fruits. We were 
then summoned to an excellent breakfast of several courses, garnished 
with capital "wine. 
When our repast was concluded, Seiior Sylva conducted us over his 
house ; showed us the interior of the neat church, where he has made 
pedestals for the figures of various saints out of stalactites from some 
neighboring cavern ; and finally dismissed us, with sacks of the choicest 
fruit, which he had ordered to be selected from his grove. 
RANCHO DE MICHAPAS. 
P. M. Our journey from this hacienda was toward the Cave of Caca- 
huawamilpa, which we propose visiting to-morrow, and we have reached, 
to-night, the rancho of Michapas. 
This is a new feature in our travels. Hitherto we have been guests 
at haciendas and comfortable town dwellings, but to-night we are lodged 
in a rancho — a small farmer's dwelling — an Indian hut. 
We arrived about five o'clock, after a warm ride over wide and solitary 
moors, with a back ground of the mountains we passed yesterday. In 
