T H E A L C A L D E . 191 
Our turtle, flanked with lemons and claret, then came into play ; and the 
repast was ended by another smoking platter of the universal frijoles. 
Wild and primitive as was the scene among these simple Indians, I 
have seldom passed a pleasanter evening, enlivened with song and wit. 
When we crept to our reed tressels and serapes, at eleven o'clock, I found 
that the state-bed was already occupied by a smart-looking fellow from 
the West Coast, (who I take to have been rather deeply engaged in the 
contraband) and his young wife — a lively looking lass, rather whiter 
than the rest of the brood — who had spruced herself up on our arrival. 
Twelve of our party lodged together in that capacious apartment, while 
Don Miguel betook himself, with the rest of his household, to mats under 
the porch. 
22nd September. It rained heavily last night, but the morning, as usual, 
was fresh, clear and warm. After a cup of chocolate, we sallied forth 
toward the Cave of Cacahuawamilpa, having previously dispatched our 
arrieros with the mules to Tetecala, to await our return on our journey 
toward Cuautla. 
Our forces this morning were increased by the addition of some twelve 
or thirteen Indians, who had been engaged by Don Miguel to accompany 
us as guides to the cavern. They bore with them the rockets and torches 
which were to be burned within, and a large quantity of twine for thrid- 
ding the labyrinth. 
Leaving the lake, situated on the very edge of the table-land, we 
struck down a deep barranca, at the bottom of which our horses sunk 
nearly to their girths at every footstep, in an oozy marsh, that had not 
been improved by last night's rain. But passing these bogs, we ascended 
a steep line of hills, whence there was a splendid view of the snow-cap- 
ped volcanoes of Puebla, and soon reached the Indian village of Totla- 
wahmilpa, where it was necessary to procure a " license" to visit the 
cavern, or, in other words, where the authorities extort a sum of money 
from every passenger, under the plea of keeping the road open, and the 
entrance safe. As we had special passports from the Mexican Govern- 
ment to go where we pleased in the tierra caliente, I thought this precaution 
unnecessary, but our Indians refused to budge a peg without a visit to the 
Alcalde ; and therefore, while some of the party entered a hut, and set 
the women to cooking tortillias, others proceeded with the passports to the 
civic authorities. 
We found the Alcalde to be a stout old Indian, in bare feet, shirt sleeves, 
skin trowsers, and nearly as dark as an African. He was enjoying his 
leisure by a literary conversation with the schoolmaster who was his 
secretary, and the two were discovered in the midst of a host of ragged 
oys 'from eight to sixteen years old, seated on benches and learning their 
. -uters^ 
Theonoment we appeared, the Alcalde rose to receive us with great 
dignity,)^nd handing the passport to his secretary, he listened attentively 
