192 MEXICO. 
while he heard that Mr. and Mr. , of the Diplomatic Corps, 
were fully authorized by the Supreme Government to travel wheresoever 
they pleased wiliiout let, hindrance, or molestation from any of the 
good citizens of the Mexican Republic. When the secretary had con- 
cluded the document, and the Alcalde had looked at it — upside down — 
and they had examined the signature of Yieyra and Bocanegra, and ex- 
pressed themselves perfectly satisfied of their genuineness, they retired 
to a corner for consultation. 
" The Senores," said the Alcalde, turning to me, " wish to see the cav- 
ern, and they have permission from the Alcaldes and Chiefs in Mexico 
to go where they please ; — this is true ; but that liberty does not refer 
to the Cave of Cacahuawamilpa, which is under ground, while the pass- 
port relates only to what is ahove ! The Seiiores must have a license from 
the prefect here, and, moreover, they must pay for it." 
I told him that the Diplomatic Corps never paid for any such permis- 
sions. He shrugged his shoulders and said that might be, and no doubt 
was all very true in the city of Mexico, but that it was not the custom 
here ; " los dvplomaticos must fare like other people and pay for a license." 
I thought of Stephens and his " broad seal ;" and I produced my pass- 
port from the Department of State with the coat of arms of the United 
States, and the signature of Mr. Webster ; but it was all Hebrew to the 
scribe ; the eagle was not the Mexican eagle, and " Welastair,''^ he had 
never heard of. He shook his forefinger from right to left, as if inti- 
mating that it was all a humbug, and that no such man was ever known in 
Mexico. They were old stagers in the matters of fees, and strangers did 
not drop down on such visits every day of the year ! 
While this by-scene was going on, the school exercises were, of course, 
suspended, and the pupils, with staring eyes and gaping mouths, listened 
to the discussion. At length, as time was rapidly passing, the Alcalde 
was asked liow much he wanted, and told that we would give him no ex- 
travagant sum. He named, I believe, ten dollars as his price, but we 
compromised for five — ^two of which were for the prefect, two for himself, 
and one for the secretary. As I was anxious to get the autograph of so 
distinguished a functionary, I asked him for a written license ; but he re- 
plied that it was not necessary. " You may go now," said he ; " no one 
will molest you ;" and turning to our guide : " The Seiiores are muy ca- 
balleros;" (which may be translated, ''very gentlemen") "take care of 
them, and at your peril, see that they come back safely." 
The secretary made a bow — the Alcalde another — our guide led the 
way, and we rejoined our party at the Indian hut, where they had half a 
dozen women baking tortillas as fast as they could pat them, for our 
breakfast at the cave. 
We lost no time, but mounting at once, pushed over a hill or two until 
we reached a small path leading through a corn-field, at the foot of which 
ran a clear and narrow rivulet. There we dismounted, and crossing the 
hill, the mouth of the cavern was pointed out on the opposite side of the 
