200 MEXICO. 
G got down to examine, and the landlord led the way. He first 
opened No. 3. It was eight feet long, about six wide, and ten high ; in 
one corner lay a pool of mud on the earthen floor, and the walls were 
literally black with fleas. G at once objected to this, and the landlord 
said that it was of course not intended for the Sefiores, but for the baggage 
and the mozos. He had "another, more comfortable " for ourselves; and 
stepping across the street, opened No. 6, which, from its exterior, appeared 
to be of the same size of No. 3. Scarcely had he turned the bolt — when 
out walked a full grown ass ! 
But our discontent did not satisfy the landlord — he did not see why we 
could not be " accommodated in rooms that were good enough for other 
folks — and we might praise the Virgin if we got better in Cuautla!" 
There was no time for discussion, however, and as we were hungry, 
and would rather betake ourselves to the fields and sleep under the trees 
than submit to the vermin of Cuautla, I proposed that we should return 
to Cuauwistla. In the meantime, however, Don Juan Black had be- 
thought him of all his friends in the village, and discovered that the 
administrador of Santa Inez was an old acquaintance who had often 
requested a visit in his journeys to the tierra caliente. 
It is true that we made a formidable party, with horses and mules, be- 
sides our own ravenous appetites, but Black insisted that he knew the 
people of the country, and that we would undoubtedly be welcome at the 
neighboring plantation. 
He was, therefore, at once put at the head of the troop, and we 
marched out of the court-yard under a shoWer of abuse from the cob- 
bling host — as a set of " caprichosos Ingleses, who deserved to rot on the 
road-side." His spouse and Maritornes fell into their parts of the denun- 
ciatory trio, as the hoof of the last horse struck his abominable gate-sill. 
The hacienda of Santa Inez is situated in the midst of sugar-fields to 
the north of the town, and the works, residence, chapel, and Indian vil- 
lage, are bordered by a beautiful stream among some of the finest forest 
trees I have seen in the Republic. I shall never forget the kind reception 
of Don Felipe Vargas ; — it was that of a tried old friend. Ample accom- 
modations and beds were offered us ; a meal (which, in apologizing for, 
he called a " penitencia,") was. quickly spread on snowy damask, served 
with a fine display of silver and excellent claret ; and the whole was sea- 
soned with a welcome that will mark Don Felipe in my memory, as a 
man to be trusted in times of difficulty. 
It was Saturday evening, and after a walk in the charming groves that 
border the brook and Indian village, from which there was a noble pros- 
