218 MEXICO. 
where there are" warm baths,* and the remains of some ancient sculpture, 
of no great significance. 
On attaining tiie lake itself, the view was exceedingly beautiful. The 
expanse is a clear and noble sheet, reflecting on its calm bosom every hill 
and mountain of the valley, while to the north (where it unites with San 
Cristoval) the lakes and horizon are blended. Yet it is singular, that, 
sounding in the deepest central part of the lake, we obtained lut two 
feet and a half of water ! The boatmen poled the entire distance of 
twelve miles, and on every side we saw fishermen wading along in the 
lake, pushing their boats as they loaded them with fish, or gathered the 
" flies' eggs" from the tall weeds and flags, that are planted in long rows 
as nests for the insects. These eggs (called agayacatl) were a favorite 
food of the Indians long before the conquest, and, when baked in pat^s, are 
not unlike the roe of fishes, both in flavor and appearance. Miev frogs 
in France, and " lird nests^' in China, I think they may be esteemed quite 
a delicacy, and I find that they are not despised even at fashionable tables 
in the Capital. 
Father Gage, at page 111 of his Travels, says that "at one season of 
the year, the Indians had nets of mail, with the which they raked oflTa 
certain dust that is bred on the water of the lake of Mexico, and is kneaded 
together like unto oas of the sea. They gathered much of this and kept 
it in heaps, and made thereof cakes like unto brick-bats. And they did 
not only sell this ware in the market, but also sent it abroad to other fairs 
and markets afar off; and they did eat this meal, with as good a stomach 
as we eat cheese ; yea, and they hold the opinion, that this scum of fatness 
of the water is the cause that such great number of fowl cometh to the 
lake, which in the winter season is infinite." 
This was written early in the seventeenth century, and " infinite'^ still 
continues to be the number of wild fowl with which these lakes and the 
neighboring marshes are covered during the winter. I have elsewhere 
said, that the plains and the waters seem actually j^ejjperei with them. 
There can of course be but little skill in sporting among such clouds 
of birds, and the consequence is that they are slain for the market, by per- 
sons who rent the best situated shooting-grounds from the proprietors of the 
* According to Humboldt, (Pol. Essay, vol. ii. p. 188.) There are two sources of mineral waters in the Valley 
of Mexico; one at Guadalupe, the other at the Pcfion. Those waters contain carbonic acid, sulphate of lime 
and of soda, and muriate of soda. The temperature of the waters at the Penon is quite high. 
At this place the Indians, also, make salt. 
" Of the five lakes of the Valley of Mexico, the lake of Tezcoco is most impregnated with muriate and carbon- 
ate of soda. The nitrate of barytes proves that this water contains no sulphate in solution. The purest and most 
limpid water is that of the lake of Xochirailco, the specific weight of which Ifound to be 1.2009, when that of 
water distilled at the temperature of 54= Fahr. was 1.090, and water from the lakeof Tezcoco was 1.0215. The 
waterof this last mentioned lake is consequently heavier than that of the Baltic sea, and notso heavy as that of 
the ocean, which, under different latitudes, has been found between 1.0269 and 1.0285. The quantity of sulphur- 
ated hydrogen which is detached from the surface of the Mexican lakes, and which the acetate of lead indicates 
in great abundance in the lakes of Tezcoco and Chalco, undoubtedly contributes in certain seasons to the un- 
healthiness of theairin the valley. However, the fact is curious, tliat intermittent fevers are very rare on th a 
banks of these lakes, the snrfnr* of which is partly hidden by rushes and aquatic herbs.— Fide Humboldt— «t 
Mod. Traveller, vol. VI. p. 251. 
