MUSIC, OPERA, THEATRES. 287 
been the coarse Indians, and scurvy leperos, who robbed you on the road 
or pilfered your pockets in the streets. 
Jt >vould be improper, in speaking of the Mexican military, not to notice, 
especially, their excellent bands of music. The Spaniards transplanted 
their love and taste for this beautiful science to Mexico. The Indians 
have caught the spirit from their task-masters ; — and whether it be in the 
tinkling guitar or the swelling harmonies of a united corps, you can scarce 
go wrong, in expecting an exhibition of the art from a native. It is the 
custom for one of the regimental bands to meet after sundown, under the 
windows of the Palace, in the Plaza, which is filled with an attentive 
crowd of eager listeners to the choicest airs of modern composers. 
I have said, that this musical taste pervades all classes ; and it was, 
therefore, to be hoped, that a regularly established Operatic corps would 
have readily succeeded in the Capital. But from a variety of causes the 
experiment failed. The Revolution of 1841, interfered with it at the out- 
set, in the months of August and September ; and, from the unfavorable 
location of the house, and other circumstances, the whole enterprise was 
visited with a series of disastrous losses that left the management, in July, 
1842, with a deficit of upward of 32,000 dollars. The singers were 
good ; the prima donna (Madame Castellan,) and basso, unexceptionable ; 
but the establishment never became fashionable. 
Not so, however, with the Theatres ; — three of which were almost con- 
stantly in operation while I resided in Mexico. The " Principal," the 
resort of the old aristocracy, was the theatre of staid fashion ; — the 
" Nuevo Mexico," a haunt of the newer people, who looked down on the 
" legitimate drama," and tolerated the excitement of innovation and nov- 
elty ; — and the " Puente Quebrada," a species of San Carlino, where 
" the people" revelled in the coarser jokes and broader scenes of an ad 
libitum performance. ^ 
I frequently visited the Principal, but kept a box with several young 
friends at the Nuevo Mexico, where I found the greatest advantage in 
the study of the Spanish language, from the excellent recitations of the 
" comicos." Most of them were Castillians, who spoke their native tongue 
with all the distinctive niceties of pronunciation, besides producing all 
the newest efforts of the Spanish muse. 
It was singular to observe, how from a small beginning and really 
excellent performances, the taste and wealth of Mexico was gradually 
drawn from its old loves at the Principal to the daring upstart. I have 
elsewhere lold you that the theatre is a Mexican necessary of life. It is 
the legitimate conclusion of a day, and all go to it ; — the old, because they 
have been accustomed to do so from their infancy ; the middle aged, be- 
