The Garden Magazine, May, 1924 
197 
may now be planted in drills or hills. On light soils planting in 
rows on level ground is satisfactory. Rich ground is essential. 
Well rotted manure, pulverized sheep manure, and ground bone, 
are excellent supplements to good natural soil. 
Lettuce to be sown every two weeks to keep up a regular supply. After 
the middle of the month sow the Crisp-head varieties like Iceberg 
and New York (see pages i 16-118 April, 1922, Garden Magazine) 
String Beans to be sown regularly every two weeks. All sorts of Pole 
Beans may be planted now. Set the poles first, using manure 
and fertilizer in the hill. 
Several sowings of Peas to be made during the month, making drills 
deeper than for the earlier sowings. 
Make succession sowings of Beets and Carrots. 
Endive to be sown in small quantities at frequent intervals to maintain 
regular supply. 
Corn to be sown as soon as the ground is fit and plant successions at 
short intervals. Try planting one row each of an early, midsea¬ 
son, and late Rind at one time. 
Early Celery to be planted out. Seed of late Celery for winter use to 
be sown at once, if not already done; also Celeriac which requires 
a long season of growth. 
Make up a seed bed outdoors and sow such Brassicas as late Cabbage, 
Cauliflower, Brussels Sprouts, Kale, etc. 
Chicory, or French Endive, to be sown to secure roots for forcing next 
winter. 
Sow Okra when the ground becomes really warmed. 
As insect and other pests will soon become active, see that supplies of 
necessary spraying materials are on hand. 
The Frames at Work 
These will now be fully occupied with annuals and bedding plants de¬ 
manding water more freely, and ample ventilation with a view to 
dispensing altogether with the sash before setting the occupants 
outdoors. As space is cleared, lightly fork over the soil and pre¬ 
pare to sow perennials and biennials. 
Hills may be prepared and Cucumbers of the English frame type 
sown to occupy the frames for the rest of the summer. Melons 
may be used in this way too. 
The young Carnation plants hardening in the frames may be planted 
outside. Keep well cultivated, and growths pinched, since upon 
the treatment they receive now depends to a great extent their 
success next winter. 
GREENHOUSE ACTIVITIES FOR THIS SUMMER’S GARDEN AND NEXT WINTER’S BLOOM 
Show Pelargoniums now coming into flower will justify all the care 
given them during the next few weeks. Fumigate to keep free 
from aphis, and keep the greenhouse cool and airy, with no direct 
rays of sun on the plants. 
Bulbs of Achimenes started in heat late in March will now have made 
some growth, and two or three of the bulbs may be placed to¬ 
gether in pans or baskets, and gradually inured to the greenhouse, 
where they will provide a blaze of color. Light shading is nec¬ 
essary. 
Begonias, Gloxinias, and other flowering plants grown in the green¬ 
house, to be well fed; Cyclamen and Primulas may be placed in 
coldframes and slightly shaded. 
For September Melons 
Melons for a midseason crop to be started now. They will produce a 
crop in about 14 weeks (September); any of the English forcing 
types may be used. 
The rose benches to be cleaned out and painted with hot whitewash 
before any replanting is done. If the plants are to be carried 
over another year, dry off gradually, in order to rest them; but do 
not overdo it, or they make take a permanent rest. 
Adiantums in large pots that were rested during the winter will now 
have a dense crop of young fronds. Any not repotted will be 
benefited by weak doses of liquid manure once a week. A little 
shade will keep the frond a dark uniform color. A. Croweanum 
and A. cuneatum require a night temperature of 60 degree's with 
70 to 75 degrees sun heat during the day, A. Farleyense requires 
from 65 to 70 degrees at night. 
An Eye to Next Season 
Next winter’s supply of flowers must be thought of now. As soon as 
possible empty the houses of all hard-wooded plants such as Aza¬ 
leas, Genistas, Acacias, Bougainvilleas, etc., plunging them out¬ 
doors to ripen their wood. 
Gardenias should be planted early. Clean benches and a rich, porous 
soil and good drainage are necessary. Syringe well every day 
after planting, to ward off insect pests and mealy bugs. A night 
temperature of 70 degrees suits. 
Stocks for winter flowering to be sown now. Princess Alice, and 
Beauty of Nice are good types. Grow cool. 
Chrysanthemums for exhibition to be kept growing without a check. 
A good soil is turfy loam, with one-third well rotted cow manure 
and a sprinkling of bonemeal. Do not over water, and attend 
to tying, staking, pinching, and keeping the plants free from aphis. 
Bouvardias may be planted out in loamy soil, and pinched back three 
or four times during the summer to make husky plants for lifting 
in the fall. 
Snapdragons for winter flowering to be started. 
The flowering season of Amaryllis being past, the plants may be placed 
in frames, and plunged up to the rims. Give weak liquid manure 
once a week at first and twice later on; syringe every fine day, and 
see that they are not in need of water. Any attention given 
now while making their growth will be repaid when the next 
flowering season comes. 
Plants of Winter-flowering Begonias need attention before they become 
pot-bound. Give a light compost made up of a good deal of flaky 
leafmold, good loam, screened cow manure, and sand, and a 
temperature of 60 to 62 degrees at night. 
What the Orchids Want 
Calanthes may be started into growth in flats of sand. Pot the bulbs 
when the roots are quite short. Pot firmly and water sparingly 
until the roots get into the soil. Another useful terrestrial Orchid 
is Phaius grandiflorus, which will soon be in flower. It needs a 
temperature of 60 degrees at night, a good water supply, and weak 
cow manure to strengthen the flower spikes. 
Odontoglossums are now in the height of their season. The plants 
need full sun some time longer to redden up their leaves, thus 
making them tough to withstand the heat of summer. All enjoy 
more water at the roots now. 
A temperature of 55 degrees at night is ample for them. A light 
spraying on bright days is beneficial. Protect the flower spikes 
from snails by wrapping cotton wool around the base of the spikes. 
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RAINBOWS OF JUNE 
TRIS time in gardens little and big! A chance to enjoy, to compare, to dream and plan for next year’s loveliness enthusiastically 
companioned by Agnes Fales Huntington whose sprightly and understanding comment on IRISES FOR EVERYBODY comes 
in the June number. Seasonably, too, A COLOR PORTRAIT OF IRIS MORNING SPLENDOR appears on the cover. 
Since the garden now has its “pocket full of posies” to be shared with the house, Estelle H. Riess’ timely word on THE DEC¬ 
ORATIVE USE OF FLOWERS will be read with profit. Which flowers are “color flowers” and which are “form flowers”? 
Should they be used in mass or singly? Questions often asked; and here succinctly answered. 
FLOWERS IN ITALIAN GARDENS—Narcissus and Pinks, Peonies and Fritillary, Roses, Acacia, and other bloom for 
centuries shone among the sombre greenery which we of today commonly—and erroneously, so Herbert W. Faulkner contests in 
his interesting article scheduled for June—consider the true Italian garden. Do you know, too, that Padua had its Botanic Garden 
way back in 1525? 
Summer fruits ripen swiftly and swiftly pass their prime—how to keep them sweet and delectable for next winter’s enjoyment 
is given in a very practical group of recipes under the caption of THE HOUSEWIFE AND HER GARDEN by Ruth Gipson 
Plowhead. 
