THE c. MONTH'S REMINDER —JUNE 
Copyright, 1924, Doubleday. Page & Company 
How to Use This Guide. When referring to the time for out¬ 
door work of any sort latitude 40 at sea level (i. e. New York 
City) in a normal season is taken as standard; but at best 
dates can only be approximate. Roughly, the season ad¬ 
vances or recedes fifteen miles a day. Thus Albany, 
which is one hundred and fifty miles from New York, 
would be about ten days later, and Philadelphia, 
which is ninety miles southwest, about a week earlier. 
Also allow four days for each degree of latitude, for 
each five degrees of longitude, and for each four hun¬ 
dred feet of altitude. 
since March we have been enjoying 
flowers of one sort or another, scatter- 
I mr. ingly at first—a few Crocuses, a handful 
of Snowdrops perhaps—then the more 
generous troops of Daffodils and Tulips; 
now June brings luxuriant largess not only of 
flowering things but of welcome “first fruits’’ in the vegetable garden 
—Asparagus, Peas, Rhubarb—substantially rewarding diligence and 
thoughtful planning. Plantings are to be continued, of course, to 
keep up a succession of fresh, tender vegetables through the summer 
months and there is a distinct delight in “stepping lively” these 
pleasant days and in keeping well abreast of the garden game. 
Details of how to do each item may be found in the current 
or back issues of The Garden Magazine —it is manifestly 
impossible to make each number of the magazine a complete 
manual of practice. References to back numbers may 
\ be looked up in the index to each completed volume 
(sent gratis upon request); and to further help the 
reader we have a “Service Department” which will be 
glad to cite references to any special topic, if asked 
for by mail, and also to send personal replies to 
specific questions; a stamped, addressed envelope being 
enclosed. 
Iris needs lots of water after blooming. Use 
bonemeal as fertilizer; top dressing with manure 
is bad for Iris. The best time to divide, trans¬ 
plant, or make new plantings of Iris is im¬ 
mediately after the blooming period. 
Stake plants as they need it and before they 
blow over, using an inconspicuous support. 
Cut to the ground Achillea as soon as through flowering to provide for 
a second crop later in the season. 
Coreopsis kept cut close will make a display all through the season. 
Keep picked off all dead leaves and flowers as they fade. 
What the Roses Want 
For All-summer Vegetables 
Succession plantings (See Mar., 1922, G.M.on “When, How and Where 
to Plant for Quality Vegetables”) to be made of all vegetables re¬ 
quired for table supply throughout the summer; and provide for fall 
crops (see article in July, 1923,G. M. on “ Follow Up Crops”) bv re¬ 
planting extra-early varieties now on the decline—such as Beets, 
Radishes, Lettuce, Spinach, etc. Have mid-summer Lettuce (see 
Garden Magazine for April, 1922, pages 116—118) or Endive fol¬ 
low early Beets; Bush Beans after Radishes; Beets or Celery to 
follow Lettuce; Lettuce or Beans to follow Onions. Extra-early 
varieties of the follow-up crops will oftentimes leave the ground 
available for still another crop in August. 
Plant early varieties of Sweet Corn every week or ten days up to July 
4th which should be the final planting in latitude 40°; midseason 
Lettuces, such as All-season, Iceberg, and Butterhead to be sown 
all through this month. Fine summer Radishes are Long White 
Vienna, Chartiers, and White Delicious. 
Winter Celery to be sown at once. Any sown last month may be 
pricked off into a spent hotbed as soon as large enough to 
handle. 
Crops grown for their leaves (Chard, Spinach, Endive, etc.) will be 
benefited by nitrogenous manures. Give top dressing of nitrate 
of soda either immediately following a rain or on ground thor¬ 
oughly saturated the night previous. Liquid manure is best, 
however, to make; half fill a bag with manure and suspend in a 
barrel of water. 
Cease cutting Asparagus as soon as other vegetables are plentiful. 
Transplant to permanent quarters: late Cauliflower, Cabbage, Kale, 
Broccoli, and Brussels-sprouts. 
Bloom for All the Bare Spaces 
Sow now seed from such early flowering plants as Columbines, Lark¬ 
spurs, etc., to produce good plants before the fall. 
Still time to get a supply of seeds of annuals and enjoy a perfect sea 
of bloom ere the fall frosts arrive. To be sown now: Snapdragons, 
Asters, annual Gaillardia, Clarkia, Larkspur, Lupin, Poppy, 
Alyssum, Arctotis, Balsam, Calendula, Calliopsis, Candytuft. 
Cornflower, Centaurea, Cleome, Globe-amaranth, annual Gypso- 
phila, annual Sunflower, Marigold, Mignonette, Stock, Verbena, 
Zinnia, etc. 
Late-flowering Tulips may be lifted as they pass out of bloom and 
heeled in elsewhere to ripen, the vacancies being filled with annuals. 
Those known as “croppers” are best for this purpose. 
In the Flower Garden 
Sweet-pea flowers to be picked determinedly; if seed-pods form, plants 
will stop producing. Keep well watered, for if the vines begin to 
turn yellow that is the end. Bedding-out to be finished promptly, 
setting aside a few surplus plants for replacements. 
Feed freely with liquid manure; if large exhibition blooms are wanted 
rub off all but the terminal bud. One sure way to get control of 
rose bugs is by hand picking into a can of kerosene. Spraying 
with arsenate of lead, 5 pounds to 50 gallons of water, repeatedly, 
is an old remedy not very effectual. Melrosine is a new prepara¬ 
tion recommended for its effectiveness. 
Gladiolus for late fall cutting to be planted at 2-week intervals. 
Dahlias to be planted during the month; put out stakes before setting 
out tubers or plants. When growth has started, reduce shoots to 
one, allowing side branches to develop one foot above the ground. 
Among the Perennials 
Many herbaceous and alpine plants may be propagated after flower¬ 
ing by cuttings or offsets. The Creeping Phlox, Cerastium, Sedum, 
Aubretia, Arenaria, and Iberis, are among those that may be 
increased at this time. Use a frame containing sandy soil and 
which can be shaded from hot sun. 
Sowing seeds at this time will give a good stock of flowering plants 
for next year. Such subjects as Delphiniums, Lupins, Fox¬ 
gloves, Canterbury-bells, Sweet Williams, Aquilegias, Oenotheras, 
Heucheras, and other perennials, will make plants of sufficient 
size to plant into permanent quarters in the fall if sown now. A 
seedbed in the open ground will meet the requirements of these 
plants at this time, but as the frames are emptied of other stock 
they may be utilized. Shade is essential until germination takes 
place. 
Shrubbery, Lawn, etc. 
Keep clipped all kinds of trained plants and hedges. 
Recently transplanted large trees, shrubbery, and other ornamentals 
to be well watered throughout the summer. 
Evergreens will be benefited by overhead spraying twice a day. 
Young shoots of climbing Roses and other climbers to be kept tied up. 
Seed-pods to be removed from Rhododendrons, Kalmias, Andromedas, 
etc., to reserve vigor for next year’s bloom. 
Prune early-flowering shrubs as they pass out of bloom, removing the 
oldest wood that it may be replaced with young, vigorous shoots 
for next season’s flowers. 
Propagate now by cuttings of half-ripened wood shrubs and trees, to 
be rooted under glass; also layer as soon as shoots are long enough 
to permit it. 
Pinch out side shoots of Evergreens to induce bushiness. 
Grass edges to be neatly clipped; walks and drives to be raked and 
rolled frequently. 
For Fine Fruits 
Thin the “set” of Apples, Pears, Peaches. Much finer fruit will 
result, with superior flavor, and the aggregate weight will at least 
be equal. True also of Grapes. 
