WHAT TO DO IN THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 
ADOLPH KRUHM and LEWIS E. THEISS 
Planting Now for a Full Supply of Late Vegetables for Autumn and Winter Use 
?ULY brings nearly ideal conditions 
for making a garden, much more so 
in many respects than the earlier 
fp spring months. The soil is warm 
and mellow causing the seeds to ger¬ 
minate very rapidly. If very dry, give it a 
good soaking the day before digging, turning the moist soil down un¬ 
derneath the seeds, where it will do the work as it rises to the surface. 
Prepare a seed-bed in a shaded sheltered position. Deep seed-beds 
catch and retain moisture much better than shallow ones, and seed-beds 
packed with humus do best of all. It is especially necessary, therefore, 
to make sure seed-beds are as deep and rich as possible when 
planting crops that must grow during the dry parts of the season. Be¬ 
cause of dry conditions commonly prevalent at this season it is advis¬ 
able to cover all seeds two to three times the 
depth that they are covered ordinarily. Quick 
and even germination is encouraged by press¬ 
ing the soil in firm contact with the seeds. A 
quick way is to place a board over the row after 
sowing and walk over it. In the case of Beet 
seeds, no board is needed, but just walk right 
over the rows to push the soil firmly in con¬ 
tact with the spongy fruits holding the seeds. 
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Vegetables that Can Still Be 
Planted with Success 
Lettuce 
Spinach 
Cucumbers 
Corn 
Celery 
Cabbage 
Celery and Corn 
W HEN the early Peas are done bearing, 
mow off the vines, fit the soil again, and 
plant Celery where the vines were. The early 
Potato ground can be utilized in the same way for other Celery plant¬ 
ings, or for other fall vegetables. This double working of the ground, 
and the double enrichment, should bring excellent second crops. 
Bear in mind that in many sections July finds the gardener less than 
90 days from the average frost date. Consequently quick maturing 
varieties must be selected. The choice is greater than the average 
gardener suspects. Golden Bantam Sweet Corn may be sown up to 
the middle of July, for instance, and bear well-filled ears in sections 
where frost does not threaten until about September 25th. 
Beans and Carrots 
A LL varieties of Bush Beans, excepting the Limas, will make a crop. 
Tv Where this message reaches the reader in late June, he may still 
hope to raise a crop of Fordhook Bush Limas if the seeds are sown a 
few days before July comes. In planting Limas push seeds into the 
soil eye down or else the seedlings will break their necks trying to bring 
up from below any soil caught in the seedling leaves. Sow String 
Beans every ten days until August first. Carrots can be sown the first 
and fifteenth for late season use. Did you ever try Japanese Carrots? 
There is one with a red flesh, like a deep-colored Beet, that is most ap¬ 
petizing to look at. It is called the Sapporo. Incidentally, the foliage 
of the Japanese Carrot is even more ornamental than that of our ordin¬ 
ary varieties. 
Lettuce and Endive 
CTART Endive for fall salads in the seed bed and transplant to its 
^ position in August. Another fine salad crop that revels in the 
cool fall weather is Lettuce. Two varieties especially desirable for 
fall planting are Mignonette and Crisp-As-Ice. Both have a rather 
forbidding looking bronze-green exterior, but their looks surely belie the 
quality of the golden heart within. Lettuce will not stand in head long, 
but soon shoots up a flower-stalk and becomes worthless. It is generally 
thought to be due to heat. However, it is now known to be caused by 
too many hours of daylight in summer. Cut off the light and you 
can make your Lettuce stand in the head indefinitely. Why not put 
a light-proof cover on your coldframe, fill the frame with Lettuce, and 
allow the plants to have light only eight or ten hours a day? They will 
remain in head then and the heads will continue to grow as it is physi¬ 
cally impossible for the plants to bloom with so little light. 
Cauliflower 
Brussels-sprouts 
Kohlrabi 
Kale 
Rutabaga 
Turnips 
Beans (String and Lima) 
The Whole Cabbage Family 
HTHE entire Cabbage group, embracing 
1 Brussels-sprouts, Cauliflower, Kohlrabi, 
Kale, Cabbage and Rutabaga, find ideal 
conditions from now on for the best develop¬ 
ment—“The twelfth of July, wet or dry,” being the orthodox date 
for Turnips. Did you ever try “Cowhorn” Turnips? Commonly 
these are used to plow under in the field, and the idea has arisen that 
they are fit only for cattle or soil enrichment. Try a few and see 
how really delicious they are! With the exception of Cauliflower, 
of which a very early maturing variety should be selected, all varieties 
in all classes will reach full size and stand considerable frost, before 
they need be harvested and stored. 
Cauliflowers frequently refuse to head, 
and lack of uninterrupted moisture is a main 
cause. So be particular to cultivate them 
often at this time. A heavy mulch is even 
better, if you can manage it. Inferior seed is 
another cause of Cauliflower failure. Make 
a note of that and buy the best you can get 
for next year. 
Sow Chinese Cabbage, either Pe-tsai or 
Wong Bok, in July. Sown earlier, it goes 
to seed. It is delicious sliced and eaten raw, 
or boiled, and it can be used in krout. Noth¬ 
ing equals it in cole-slaw. The cabbage but¬ 
terflies have been largely fooled by it. They 
often pass it by, to lay their eggs in the 
real Cabbages. Of course, Chinese Cabbage is not really a Cabbage, 
but a Mustard so the butterflies are wiser than we think. 
Spinach and Cucumbers 
O E COURSE, Spinach should be thought of as a principal fall crop. 
The Early White Spine strains of Cucumber will produce fine 
crops of pickles by the middle of September from seeds sown now. 
Guard the young seedling plants against the striped cucumber beetle 
by dusting them with paris green, slug shot, or any one of the stomach 
poisons. 
Using Early Cabbages to Advantage 
D O YOUR early Cabbages split their heads in July? It is because 
growth is checked and then suddenly resumed. Try loosening 
the roots a bit and bending the stalks down. That often prevents the 
splitting by preventing a resumption of rapid growth. If your summer 
Cabbages split anyway, use them for sour-krout. This is not commonly 
done, but is really advantageous to the housewife. When the krout 
has sufficiently fermented, it must be cooked and canned. Warm 
weather induces such a development of acid in the krout, that the acid 
fairly consumes the cabbage. Hence krout is ordinarily made in the 
fall when it is cool. The krout then remains all winter in the crock 
in which it is made. This is wasteful, for each time a mess is taken 
from the crock the top must be thrown away. Cook it all at once and 
can it, when the windows can be open, in summer. Heating a can of 
this cooked krout will not smell up the house as the cooking of krout 
made in the ordinary way does. 
Beating the Squash Bug at His Own Game 
A SUGGEST I ON from an old Scotch gardener on how to beat the 
squash bug: (of course if you can locate the borer and cut him out 
before he gets down to the roots and causes utter ruin, you may be able 
to save the plant). As soon as the vines start to run the gardener 
“layers” them, that is he throws soil over several of the joints. Roots 
start at these points and even if the borer does his wrecking at the main 
roots there are plenty of other roots along the vine to develop. This 
method of layering has never interfered with the quality or the size 
of the squash. 
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