370 
The Garden Magazine, July, 1924 
cuttings are so short that they cannot be buried deep enough to support 
themselves, the cuttings can be wired to wooden stakes driven into the 
ground. These will hold them upright and keep the butts in the soil. 
Keeping Flowering Shrubs in Condition 
C UT out the old flowering canes of Spiraea Vanhouttei as close to 
the ground as practicable. Cut out the climbing Rose canes that 
have flowered although you probably haven’t any this year if you live 
in the colder sections as none were left above ground to speak of except 
on the old Prairie Queen. Spray Spiraeas and Rose bushes with nicotine 
preparations to destroy the midsummer crop of plant lice that swarm at 
this season; for hard shelled pests the proprietary articles Dy-sect or 
Melrosine must be used. 
Among the Fruits 
C URRANTS hang on the bushes a long time without spoiling, 
especially if protected. If currant worms appear at any time, 
dust freely with powdered hellebore. Select a bush or two and cover 
with muslin or closely-woven cheesecloth. This will retard the matur¬ 
ing of the berries and one can thus have currants in August. 
Raspberries, both red and black, will be done bearing in July, in the 
North. The canes that have just borne fruit should be cut out at once 
and burned. This allows the strength of the plant to go into the canes 
for next year’s crop, and it helps to keep down diseases. Scales attack 
Raspberries badly. Anthracnose is very harmful to the black varieties. 
Prompt cutting of canes and their destruction by fire will help to keep 
both ailments in check. 
Yellow Transparent Apple comes into bearing very young, often 
two or three years after planting. It is inclined to bear heavily. 
Make sure you take off a good part of the fruit each year for a time. 
This thinning will help the tree to establish the habit of annual bearing. 
Remember in the handling of fruit trees that with some varieties it is 
impossible for a tree to bear a large quantity of fruit and at the same 
time set buds for the succeeding year’s crop. Help the tree bv thinning 
the fruit. 
The Fun of Making Your Own Fruit Trees 
UDOING can be done by late July. All you need is a sharp 
knife, a piece of string, a matured bud, and a new growth of wood 
in which to insert the bud. Every home gardener would find pleasure 
and profit in making a few trees for himself. In early spring crack the 
shells from a few Peach pits. Plant the kernels. By July you will 
have fine little trees. Get shoots of new wood from the finest Peach 
trees you know, make a T-shaped incision in the tender bark near the 
root, an inch long, roll back the bark, shave off a bud, slip it into the 
opening, and fasten the bark over it with your string. In three or four 
weeks it will grow fast and your string should be removed. Next spring 
all growth above vour inserted bud should be cut off and the inserted 
bud alone allowed to grow. By autumn it will be a considerable tree, 
and by the next autumn it may have fruit on it. It is the easiest thing 
in the world to have in your own garden exactly the fruit you wish, 
whether nursery men sell the trees or not. Make your own. 
Budding must be done when the bark slips easily (as it does in spring, 
when small boys make willow whistles) but there must not be too much 
sap flowing or the stock will “throw out” the bud. The latter will not 
grow fast. Though late July is an excellent time to bud, it is some¬ 
times necessary to wait late until the desired buds mature. By that 
lime the bark may be tight, so that budding is impossible, in which 
case cultivate your stock actively for a few days, using the hoe daily 
about it. New growth will be induced and the bark may loosen up so 
that the bud can be inserted. Then cease cultivation to allow the new 
wood to mature before winter. Stocks should be at least three-eighths 
of an inch in diameter to permit of easy budding. 
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