418 
The Garden Magazine, August, 1924 
Which Flowers to Choose and How to Get Good Soil 
D O NOT be tempted to try Roses or Carnations, but leave 
these and all other so-called “florist’s flowers” to the ex¬ 
pert who gives his whole time to their culture and who lies awake 
when the blizzards howl. There are several flowers which will 
grow simply and easily in a playhouse and 
give you blossoms from frost until your sum¬ 
mer garden blooms. If you want the same 
pleasure in your winter garden that you have 
in your summer garden treat it in the same 
way only more intensively. Plant Pompom 
Chrysanthemums, Calendulas, dwarf Snap¬ 
dragons, Wallflowers, dainty Baby Primroses, 
Pansies, Mignonette, Daffodils, Tulips; also, 
Lettuce and Parsley. None of these are diffi¬ 
cult to grow. Sow your seeds in time, and 
then grow on the young plants in pots so they 
will be good, well-established plants when your 
playhouse bench is ready. 
In potting up plants to be transferred later 
to the benches, be sure and use shallow pots 
giving the roots sidewise space instead of depth; 
or your bench will be too shallow to hold them, 
and the plants will be obliged to start the win¬ 
ter with their roots on the boards instead of 
on a soft cushion of soil. The simplest and 
best way to keep these potted plants in good 
condition is to fill a shallow frame with an¬ 
thracite coal ashes, and sink the pots to their rims in the 
ashes. This will prevent them from upsetting and keep them 
from drying out. Have at least 3 inches of ashes under the 
pots to keep out angle worms. Build this frame near the 
hydrant or pump so you can water the plants easily when 
necessary. 
Soil for the greenhouse is best prepared in April or May; a 
layer of soil—with good sod turned upside down, if possible—a 
layer of cow manure, a layer of soil, and again for the top a 
layer of cow manure, is the ideal. It is not necessary to cut 
and mix it until the time comes to take it into the playhouse, 
only do not let the weeds steal away its strength. Be sure to 
keep one or two barrels of earth in the cellar or garage where it 
will not freeze so it will be ready for use for early garden seeds 
and plants long before it thaws out-of-doors. 
Flats for Bulbs and Early Seeds 
Ah I-' 
AKE the flats to be used out-of-doors of such a size that 
they will fit into the bench two or three side by side or 
across and be careful not to make them too large. Soil is heavy 
and a flat of bulbs must be lifted and carried about more than 
vou realize until you have done it yourself. Much pleasure 
will be lost if the weight is a tax upon your strength. The large 
Daffodils require deeper Hats than the Roman Hyacinths and 
Tulips, so make some 4\ inches for Emperor and Golden Spur 
Daffodils. If you prefer, plant your bulbs in bulb pans which 
are simply shallow flower-pots. Whether you use flats or 
earthenware pans, the bulb containers will be used later for your 
early seedlings for the garden: Tomatoes, Peppers, Egg-plants, 
Parsley, etc. 
The outside of the benches will be painted dark green 
or any other color you prefer, but do not paint the inside. 
Leave that alone or, better still, give it a coat of whitewash 
with a little sulphur. Add the sulphur (flowers of sulphur) 
to the hot lime as you slake it, so it will be a part of the 
whitewash. 
Order your bulbs at once and ask for September delivery. 
Paperwhite Narcissus, Roman Hyacinths, Daffodils, and fulips 
are easy to grow. Trumpet Major, Golden Spur, Emperor, and 
Victoria are standard Daffodils. Murillo and Mon Tresor 
are semi-double Tulips which are always beautiful and are 
better than the single varieties in the playhouse, because they 
last longer. When the bulbs finish blooming do not throw 
them away. Put them under the bench and let them gradually 
harden up and the following September, plant them out-of- 
doors. We have a sheltered hillside in our woods which is 
golden with Daffodils every spring, and all of those bulbs first 
blossomed in our playhouse. 
Planting Bulbs for Winter Bloom 
I F THE drainage cracks in the bottoms of 
the flats let the soil fall through, put in a 
little straw, then two or three inches of soil, 
depending upon the size of your bulbs, and 
then a layer of sand. Stand the bulbs on this 
sand 1^—2 inches apart and then fill the flat 
with fine soil, pressing it in smoothly. In the 
corner of each flat put a wooden label bearing 
the name of the bulbs and the date of plant¬ 
ing and have this label tall enough to show 
above the top of the leaves or ashes used later 
for protection. If the ash frame is empty, 
level the ashes and stand your flats of bulbs 
so there will be at least 3 inches of ashes un¬ 
der them. Water them when they are planted 
and again, if necessary, but do not keep them 
as wet as the potted plants. When the freez¬ 
ing weather comes, gradually cover the flats 
with leaves or anthracite coal ashes which¬ 
ever is more convenient. Early in November begin to watch 
the under side of the flats of Paperwhite Narcissus, Roman 
Hyacinths and Trumpet Major Daffodils. When the white 
roots come crowding through, it is time to move that flat 
into the playhouse. The stems will be longer if you keep the 
flats under the bench for a while, but if you care more about 
watching them grow than you do about stems, put them in their 
permanent place and you will be less apt to break the lengthen¬ 
ing roots. The Tulips will be the last to blossom. 
Early Columbine, Iris, and Primroses 
W HEN the January thaw comes, dig up a clump of Colum¬ 
bine in your garden and plant it in your playhouse. It 
will be a fairylike blossom and the foliage also beautiful. Clumps 
of Primroses may be brought in too. Iris will also bloom, but 
requires too much space to be worth while. In trying garden 
favorites indoors I found it an excellent rule to bring in only 
those which blossom very early in the season. The late blooming 
plants require so much time that they flower only a little while 
before their out-of-doors brothers and do not repay the trouble. 
Applying the Golden Rule 
A LEAN-TO playhouse about 12x9 ft. may be worked 
on the scheme given in the above sketch. Remember 
that the Wallflowers and Mignonette are taller than the Prim¬ 
roses, Pansies, and Lettuce, and that your big Rose Geranium 
had better be planted near the open end of the bench (A) for it 
will need space. The Chrysanthemums, Calendulas, Snap¬ 
dragons, Wallflowers, and Mignonette should be tied to stakes. 
This plan is only suggestive, but if followed ought to give 
blossoms from October to May. Experience is the best 
teacher, however, so after following this suggestion the first 
year, you will then know how to change it for your individual 
conditions. B in the plan may seem a large space for potted 
plants but it must hold the Calendulas and Snapdragons waiting 
for the Chrysanthemums to finish and give them space; the little 
Lettuce plants for renewing your lettuce bed, and the flats of 
bulbs. The sturdy Ferns—Nephrolepis in its various forms, 
and the old standby, Aspidistra—should be given a place for 
their fresh green. If your house is brick or cement, English 
Poor from. 
PRACTICAL PLAN OF A 
9 x 12 FT. GREENHOUSE 
This little lean-to conservatory may be 
attached by a French window or door 
to your living-room. A indicates space 
for Chrysanthemums followed by Ca¬ 
lendulas, A 1 Chrysanthemums followed 
by Snapdragons; B 1 , potted plants and 
bulb flats; B and C, Mignonettes, Pan¬ 
sies, Primroses, Wallflowers, Lettuce 
