GARDENING FOR THE BEGINNER 
THE MONTH'S REMINDER—AUGUST 
As to Time and Place: In gardening practice a date can only be approximated as seasons 
vary and local conditions will have some influence. Generally the latitude of forty degrees at sea 
level and a normal season is taken as standard. Roughly, the season advances or recedes fifteen 
miles a day, thus Albany would be about ten days later than New York (which is latitude 40). 
The latitude of Philadelphia is a week earlier. Also allow four days for each degree of latitude, 
for each five degrees of longitude, and for each four hundred feet of altitude. Latitude forty passes 
through Philadelphia, Pa.; Columbus, Ohio; Richmond, Indiana, Quincy, Ill.; Denver, Col. 
How to Use This Guide: Suggestions as to the most important things of the month are 
giyen in this department so as to “remind" the gardener of the current duties. For routine de¬ 
tails of such things reference should be made to standard handbooks and guides. It is impossible 
to make a complete manual of practice in each number of a periodical magazine. Yet timely 
articles will be found elsewhere in each issue, and references to back numbers will often solve the 
immediate question. Moreover, the editorial staff stands ready to help any reader with personal 
advice by mail. A self-addressed stamped envelope should be enclosed with the question. 
Who Writes This: The advice and instruction in this department are the gleanings of many years experience in practical gardening matters by 
competent amateurs and others who have “been through the mill.” The contributions are made from various sections of the country: for example. 
Mr. W. A. Currey contributes from Oregon: Mr. Theiss from Pennsylvania; Mr. Henry Gibson front Pennsylvania (formerly from New York); Mr. Sher¬ 
man Duffy from Illinois; Mr. A. Kruhm from an extensive Eastern acquaintance; and, in addition, occasional notes from elsewhere and by the 
editorial staff and associated contributors of experience. 
12 . 
13. 
’OG DAYS bring a welcome 
lull in gardening activities, 
even the weeds being less 
rampant as the sun does its 
hottest stunts of the year. 
The chief work is watering and culti¬ 
vating to keep the soil stirred and save 
the moisture. Soaking with the nozzle 
off the hose and not sprinkling is best. 
August is the month of all months 
to get after weeds. Bindweed, or 
Old-man-of-the-Earth, is sometimes a 
particular pest. Keeping it cut down 
below the surface of the ground, at 
this season, is about the only way to 
get rid of it. When the garden is 
plowed, the long roots break into 
hundreds of pieces; it is not possible 
to find and remove all these pieces, 
and each piece of root sends up a top, 
establishing a new plant. It is impossible to kill these plants when the 
earth is moist but, during the hot August days, they can be smothered 
to death if their stems are cut well below the earth’s surface. 
The gardener will find a little canvas bag fastened between the 
handles of his wheel cultivator very useful. Many weeds are so hardy 
that, after being jerked loose by the cultivator, they retain life for long 
periods, even while lying on the hot earth in the baking sun. Dock, 
Plantain, Twitch-grass, and other growths often live long enough after 
being torn up by a cultivator to be reestablished by the next rain. 
Don’t leave these growths in the garden. Pick them up as you culti¬ 
vate them out and drop them into the bag. 
If You Are Planting Daffodils This Fall 
CALL catalogues are coming in, and it is time to make out bulb lists 
1 and get in early orders. Particular attention should be paid to 
the Daffodil and Narcissus list as they will be off the market except at 
advanced prices in another year, as they are barred for importation. 
The poeticus varieties, Barrii conspicuus, and some of the Leedsii, such 
as Mrs. Langtry, Duchess of Westminster, Evangeline, and White 
Lady flourish in this climate. The large trumpet Daffodils are short 
lived, but give a wonderful show. It is best to buy the cheaper varie¬ 
ties such as Golden Spur, Emperor, Victoria, and Mme. de Graaff in 
quantity for the most satisfactory results. Gloria Mundi in the short- 
cupped section seems to do well and gives a gorgeous show. 
Prepare the bulb beds this month. Spade them deeply, pulverize 
the soil carefully, and mix in bonemeal—a liberal coating, say a coffee- 
cupful to a square yard. If the soil is heavy a mixture of sand will 
help. Use no stable manure. 
Iris and Madonna Lilies 
I 1 TTLE planting remains to be done this month, the beauti- 
ful white fragrant Lily of the Madonna (Lilium candidum) being 
one of the few possible plantings. Iris will be delivered by dealers 
this month. Plant half in and half out of the soil, “as a duck sits in 
the water.” Give the soil lime, a sprinkling like a light snow forked 
in. If the soil is heavy, add sand to lighten it, and if very heavy, it is 
best to plant the Iris on raised ridges, mulching with straw during the 
winter to prevent heaving. 
If you did not divide your Iris in July, after they had finished bloom¬ 
ing, better do it in August than later. In dividing my roots I endeavor 
Be Sure to: 
1. Plant Evergreens 
2. Set out new Strawberry beds 
3. Bag Grapes to protect from rot 
4. Sow cover crops wherever possible 
5. Build a greenhouse for use this fall 
6. Thin out fruits that have set thickly 
7. Keep July planted crops growing fast 
8. Make last plantings of succession crops 
9. Order bulbs of all kinds for fall planting 
10. Plant Madonna Lilies as soon as received 
11. Prepare beds and borders for fall planting 
Transplant and divide Irises, Oriental Poppy, and 
other perennials 
Start Lettuce, Cauliflower, Pansies, Stocks, and other 
vegetables and flowers for fall and winter under glass 
to cut creeping stems to leave at least 
one eye on each side, as 1 have found 
that I am surer of having good blooms 
next season than if the big roots are 
cut leaving eyes only on one side. Be¬ 
fore replanting, wash all the earth off 
the roots and then go over these roots 
carefully. You will find some of them 
plump, others hollow or flat and dis¬ 
colored. Cut such roots off close to the 
tubers before replanting. 
“Blacks” of Larkspur 
H OT weather, such as most sections 
of the country get in August, is 
very hard on Larkspur. The plants 
should have close attention, for, if 
severely hot weather is continuous, a 
fungus growth, quite destructive, often 
attacks the plants at the crown. When 
so attacked, apparently healthy and vigorous plants will gradually wilt. 
Such trouble may be checked at once, however, by spraying thoroughly 
with a lime and sulphur solution (of the same strength usually recom¬ 
mended for summer spraying). Also, spray the ground surrounding 
the plants. I have heard that a solution of bicarbonate of soda (i. e. 
ordinary baking soda), mixed in the proportion of one ounce of soda to a 
gallon of water, is also effective. 
Keeping the Flower Border Gay 
S TAKE the later perennials such as the Asters. Spray Chrysan¬ 
themums and the annual Asters for black aphis which generally 
begins to appear about now. Early spraying with any good nicotine 
sulphate preparation will stop them in a hurry. Grasshoppers prove 
destructive in many gardens, eating Chrysanthemums to the stems. 
Give the plants a drenching with arsenate of lead and the hoppers will 
eat only one small meal. 
Transplant perennials raised from seed to permanent quarters the 
last of the month so that their roots may be established before freezing. 
Sow seed of Violas and Pansies for early spring bloom next year to 
winter either in coldframe or under straw, pine needles, or autumn leaves 
in the open. Cut back old Pansies and Violas to start fresh growth 
from the roots for fall bloom and work a little bonemeal about the roots. 
If you do not enjoy during August or September a second blooming 
of your Pearl Achillea it is because you have not handled this perennial 
to the best advantage. It has a fairly long blooming period and the 
dainty little button-like flowers on long stems are attractive for indoor 
use. To get the full value of this plant one should, as soon as the 
flowers start to turn brown, cut them off and then give the plant several 
good doses of fertilizer, in the wav of liquid manure or sheep guano dug 
lightly into the soil. This will stimulate a new growth and a second 
crop of bloom. If you have saved seed of perennials which bloomed 
in the early season do not delay getting them started, for experience 
has shown me that the quicker I can get perennial seeds into the earth 
after they have ripened the better germination can be secured. I al¬ 
ways endeavor to sow seed of Columbines, Delphinium, Hollyhocks, 
Lupines, and a host of others by the first week in August. I also do the 
same with Canterbury-bells, Sweet Williams, and other plants which 1 
treat as biennials. By using a coldframe I find it is easier to regulate 
shade and ventilation and carry the young plants along until they are 
ready to put into their permanent place in the early fall. 
427 
