THE .MONTH'S R^E MINDER—OCTOBER 
Copyright , 1923 , Doubleday , Page 13 Co. 
How To Use This Guide. When referring to the time for outdoor 
work of any sort latitude 40 at sea level (i. e. New York City) in 
a normal season is taken as standard; but at best dates can only 
be approximate. Roughly, the season advances northward fif¬ 
teen miles a day. Thus Albany, which is one hundred and 
fifty miles from New York, would be about ten days later, 
and Philadelphia, which is ninety miles southwest, about 
a week earlier. Also allow four days for each degree 
of latitude, for each five degrees of longitude, and for 
each four hundred feet of altitude. 
mwm f YOU don’t plant now, you may lose a 
whole year for the simple reason that hardy 
pg*/ stock put into the ground this fall is ready 
to start growth no matter what kind of a 
spring you may have—of course assuming 
that the planting is properly done and properly 
cared for during the winter. Soil conditions, and 
variations in longitude and latitude are important determining 
factors and must be duly considered (See page 40, September G. M.) 
Practically all hardy shrubs, trees, and many herbaceous perennials 
are to be set out now. The evergreens, however, prove an exception, 
as do also such thin-barked trees as ornamental Peaches, Cherries, 
Birches, etc., and thick-rooted ones like the Magnolia which are as a 
rule better left till spring. All spring-flowering bulbs (Hyacinths, 
Tulips, Crocuses, Narcissus, Lilies, etc.) to be planted as soon as possible. 
Mulching material for use when the ground has frozen over to be 
collected. Mulching spells no small part of the success of fall planting. 
Collect material for protecting evergreens that are not quite hardy 
or scorch readily with the winter sun. Evergreens of symmetrical 
form may be protected from heavy snow breakage by being tied in. 
Salvaging the Growing Vegetables 
Details of bow to do each item may be found in the current or back 
issues of The Garden Magazine— it is manifestly impossible to 
• h make each number of the magazine a complete manual of prac- 
V tice. References to back numbers may be looked up in the 
index to each completed volume (sent gratis upon request) 
and to further help the reader we have a “Service Depart¬ 
ment” which will be glad to cite references to any special 
topic, if asked for by mail, and also to send personal 
replies to specific questions; a stamped, addressed 
envelope being enclosed. 
The usual method of division is to chop the roots 
into four or five pieces with a spade or edging 
knife. In the case of Phloxes, Asters, Phy- 
sostegia, and such like, use two digging forks 
placed back to back, forcing the clumps apart; 
select the outside, or younger portions, for re¬ 
planting. 
Annuals to be cleared off as soon as frost cuts them down. 
Getting the Tender Plants under Cover 
Decorative purpose plants about the dwelling to be brought indoors on 
the approach of frost. 
Everlastings (Helichrysums, Gomphrenas, etc.) to be cut before frost 
and dried out somewhat in the sun before being brought in¬ 
doors. 
Dahlias, Tuberoses, Gladiolus, Cannas, Caladiums, Tigridias, and all 
summer-flowering bulbs to be taken up and stored away, after 
being air-dried, in some airy place free from frost. 
Tender Waterlilies in tubs to be brought indoors after the tops freeze, 
and gradually dried off to ripen the bulbs. 
For Next Season’s Vegetable Crop 
Toward the end of the month dig, for housing or pitting, Beets, Car¬ 
rots, Sweet Potatoes, and all other root crops not to be left in the 
ground all winter. 
Celery in full growth to be earthed up, and during the last part of the 
month the first lot may be stored in trenches for the winter. 
Prepare for protecting the remainder from severe frosts. 
When frost threatens, lift some of the best Cauliflower and plant close 
together in a deep frame, or cellar. 
Endive approaching maturity will blanch if the sash is covered with 
shutters for a week or two. 
Squash and Pumpkins to be gathered and stored before they are 
touched bv frost. 
Jerusalem Artichokes are ready for use any time after the plant flowers. 
Lift and store like potatoes after the tops die down. 
Eggplants and Peppers to be picked before they freeze; they will keep 
for some time on dry straw in a dry, airy place. 
Asparagus foliage to be cut down as soon as it shows signs of ripening. 
Clear weeds and rubbish from the bed and after frost apply a 
thick covering of manure. 
Herbs, such as Thyme, Sage, Sweet Marjoram, etc., to be gathered, 
when perfectly dry, tied in bundles, and suspended from the ceiling 
of a dry, airy room. 
Keeping the Lawn Trim 
Cut the grass as long as it continues to grow, it is a mistake to allow 
it to remain during winter with the idea of it protecting the roots 
during severe freezing weather. T his old long grass dies, and is 
no end of trouble in the spring. 
Grading for new lawns to be done as circumstances permit; but the 
sooner the grade is established and the ground occupied with a 
cover crop, the better. 
In many sections there is still time to get a stand of grass if the seed is 
sown early in the month. 
“Moving Day” in the Flower Border 
Any contemplated changes in the flowerbeds and borders to be carried 
out while most of the plants are dormant, or nearly so, and you 
have time for the work. 
Peonies, Phloxes, and other perennials do not flower well if they become 
over dense; they need breaking up and resetting every four or five 
years, for best results. 
Sow Winter Spinach and Onions to remain in the ground over winter. 
Protect by covering with salt hay when cold weather comes. 
Roots of Chicory (French Endive) to be lifted for early forcing. Cut 
off foliage just above the crown, and pack thickly in boxes or large 
pots. Cover the roots up to the crown with soil, and place in a 
reasonably cool temperature where light is excluded. A mush¬ 
room cellar will do, but a slightly cooler temperature is better; 
under the bench of a carnation or violet house is suitable if sev¬ 
eral inches of soil be placed over the crowns to blanch the growth. 
If watered when planted, can be let alone for some time. 
Rhubarb roots to be dug and laid aside to rest prior to forcing if early 
supplies are wanted. 
Artichokes to be protected against heavy frosts. Next year’s crop 
may be provided for by selecting a few of the strongest plants, 
lift and pot them, and winter in a cool house. Cut back the foli¬ 
age and a few of the strongest roots. These old roots will furnish 
suckers for propagating next year. 
Cover crops may still be sown as the ground is cleared. Where this is 
not practicable, ridging is beneficial, especially in heavy soil. 
Where the sub-soil is inert hardpan, the remedy is bastard trenching or 
double digging; or a sub-soiling plow may be employed. Ex¬ 
cellent results are sure to follow. 
Onions lifted last month and now ripened, to be cleaned of loose rub¬ 
bish and laid out in thin layers on a dry, airy shelf in a frost¬ 
proof place, or strung on ropes and hung up. 
Supplying Fruits for the Summer of 1924 
Transplanting and planting new trees to be done as early as possible 
to become established before severe weather sets in. Mulch the 
ground for a considerable area round the roots. 
Strawberries iayered in pots may still be set out. Remove runners 
from earlier plantings. Give old beds a thorough clear-up and 
get ready mulching material for use next month. 
All fruit to be gathered before frost touches it, and avoid bruising in 
handling, which impairs the keeping quality. 
Grafting scions of various fruits to be gathered as soon as the leaves fall, 
and buried in sand out of reach of frost, to remain until grafting 
time in spring. 
Where it is not necessary to bury Blackberry and Raspberry canes to 
prevent winter-killing, tie securely to the trellis or other supports. 
Shorten any extra long canes. 
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