The Garden Magazine, November, 1923 
143 
Lilies intended for Christmas to go into a warmhouse; do not feed 
until the buds show. Syringe overhead on bright days. Spray 
for aphis. Throw away diseased plants. 
Lilium giganteum and formosum to be bought and potted up for Easter 
flowering. 
Annuals and Perennials for Winter Bloom 
Sow annuals for cutting; those that are “croppers” to be sown at fre¬ 
quent periods to give a continuous supply. Most suitable are the 
early flowering types, such as Candytuft, Sweet Alyssum, Gypso- 
phila elegans, and G. muralis, Stocks, Bachelor’s Buttons, 
Sweet Sultans, Arctotis, Calliopsis, Browallia, Schizanthus, 
Clarkia, etc. 
Pansies to be planted in benches for flowering in February and March. 
Sweet-peas dislike heat. Around 45 degrees is about right during the 
night, with a rise corresponding to sun heat during the day. 
Watering is important at this time. Avoid anything like stagna¬ 
tion, or waterlogged soil, yet on the other hand don’t have it too 
dry. 
Discontinue removing flowering buds from winter-flowering Begonias. 
Camellias and Azaleas to be kept as near 40 degrees as possible. 
Crysanthemum stock plants to be placed in a cool greenhouse or cold- 
frame to make cuttings for bush plants or standards where a single 
stem is wanted; where not, the old stool can be grown along. 
Poinsettias need even temperature, maintaining 60 degrees at night, 
steadily. Feed with weak liquid manure twice a week as soon as 
the bracts show color. 
Carnations require an even night temperature of 50 degrees. Discon¬ 
tinue pinching. Early cuttings may be taken. 
Roses that have been flowering for some time may be given moderate 
quantities of liquid manure, or top-dressed with a mixture of 
half soil and half cow manure. 
Pot-grown Rambler Roses intended for spring forcing are best kept in a 
coldframe until wanted. Tie up the canes, and lay the pots close 
together. 
Hardy Larkspur, Bleeding-heart, Iris, etc., lifted and boxed up now 
may be had in flower by gentle forcing several weeks ahead of those 
out-of-doors. Carry the clumps along in a coldframe. 
Cinerarias for Christmas should now be in 5-in. pots. Those that have 
filled the pots with roots may be given liquid manure water once a 
week. Give the plants a light, sunny position on the bench, and 
plenty of room to develop the foliage. 
Begonias Gloire de Lorraine and Cincinnati may be propagated from 
leaf cuttings. 
Chrysanthemums to be kept cool and dry, cuttings of bush plants to be 
rooted. 
Geraniums, where flowers are wanted for Christmas, to be fed freely 
with fertilizer; and quit removing flowering stems. 
Campanulas for forcing to be lifted from open ground, potted, and put 
in deep frame until January. 
Allamandas and Bougainvilleas that have been growing on during the 
summer to be rested now. 
Cinerarias and Schizanthus to be potted on as they require. Grow 
them cool (45 degrees at night). 
Primula and Cyclamen showing flowers to be lightly fed once a week. 
Azaleas, Lilies, and other forcing plants wanted for Christmas must be 
hurried along. Put them in a 60 degree night temperature with 
gradual increase if necessary to push on. 
Wall-flowers sown in May and transplanted, to be lifted, potted into 
5-in. pots, and placed in a coolhouse until February when they may 
be gently forced in a moderate temperature. 
Palms and stove plants need a moderate resting period; keep the house 
a few degrees lower at night (about 60 degrees). 
Large-flowering English Primroses to be planted out in a house with a 
violet-house temperature or wintered in pots in the frames; to be 
brought in during February for Easter. (Easter Day, 1924, falls 
on April 20th.) 
Bringing Shrubs into Bloom 
Hardy, hard-wooded forcing plants (such as Wisteria, Rhododendron, 
Lilac, Deutzia, Flowering Almond, Japan Quince, Climbing Roses, 
Cytissus, etc.) to be lifted and potted. Store outside by plunging 
the pots and mulching well until they have had sufficient rest. 
Two years outside with good cultivation will build up the plants 
sufficiently to warrant forcing. Pot-grown plants can be bought, 
but those from the open border have stronger stems. 
Tender hard-wooded plants (Acacia, Azalea, Hydrangea, Genista, 
Camellia, and Oleander, etc.) to be placed in a cool greenhouse or 
storage pit until wanted. 
Clumps of Spireas to be thoroughly soaked in water and potted up as 
soon as they arrive. They are gross feeders and need rich com¬ 
post. 
Vegetable Delicacies to be Had 
In the coolhouse grow Beets, Cauliflower, Parsley, green Onions, 
Radishes, and Spinach; with Asparagus, Sea-kale, and Rhubarb 
under the benches. In the warmhouse, String-beans, Bush Limas, 
Cucumbers, Melons, Tomatoes. Start Mushrooms now. 
MAKING THE REMINDERS WORK FOR THE SOUTH 
E. HUTSON 
Secretary, New Orleans Garden Society 
T IS obvious that the regularly published “Timely Reminder,” 
‘AsxT' w h* c h' s a P or tion of this magazine, based on conditions for the 
general latitude of New York, must be interpreted with due 
\ regard to the climate when used in the South; and my expe¬ 
rience has shown that it is just as useful to us here in Louisiana 
as to others, if one learns how to adapt it. 
I have been a Garden Magazine subscriber for many a year—and 
have most of the back numbers, since “befo’ the war.” They form 
my garden library. But I do not have them bound by years. Instead, 
my plan is to group them by months—all the Aprils clipped in a con¬ 
venient volume, all the Mays, all the Junes, and so on. 
One of these precious volumes has a chart of the United States, show¬ 
ing the “planting zones,” with directions for finding on it just how many 
weeks to add or subtract from the instructions for the latitude of Gar¬ 
den City. It places New Orleans about eight weeks ahead of the sche¬ 
dule for outdoor work—-and I find that by referring to the back numbers 
for April, for example, v/hen February comes; and those for May in 
March; I get the advice I need for spring planting. 
On the other hand, our “fall planting season” begins earlier and 
lasts much later than farther north (see G. M. for September, 1917), 
and nearly all the plants named for spring planting may be planted here 
any time from August to January. In fact, there is but one month in 
the year when we are advised not to plant seeds—July; but as this is 
written (at the end of July) I have just finished setting out a lot 
of Torrenias, Balsams, and Zinnias planted earlier in the month! 
Sweet-peas, Pansies, Poppies, and many other spring flowers must be 
planted here in the fall months to secure good roots before the weather 
grows too hot; and they often begin to bloom in January, or even in 
December, if the winter is mild. 
In the last July issue “A Southerner, New Orleans, La.,” wrote about 
the lack of available information on gardening in our part of the coun¬ 
try, thus voicing a general feeling of those of us who are trying to garden 
all the year round in this semi-tropical climate and heavy alluvial soil, 
where so many of the rules given for colder latitudes and thinner soils 
do not apply. 
Many of the plants which grow well less than a hundred miles away, 
in the Louisiana parishes, will not flourish here at New Orleans; some 
which blossom freely on the Gulf Coast or in Florida refuse to bloom for 
us. On the other hand, we have a wonderful year-round opportunity 
to garden, which, unfortunately, numbers of our people neglect, going 
away in summer and leaving their gardens to burn under the summer 
sun, until they have little left for fall and winter gardens. 
We have enjoyed, as they have, Pinks that bloomed for twelve 
months and even longer. Snapdragons will do the same here; and as 
for Ageratum—I am this year still enjoying, and giving away, plants 
that have layered themselves, from seeds bought in the spring of 1922. 
We have Roses every month in the year, and Plumbago that never 
ceases to show a few blossoms. 
