The Garden Magazine, January, 1924 
261 
the autumn, thus prolonging the season, and adding to the gen¬ 
eral landscape effect. 
If you have a greenhouse and a propagating bench with bottom heat, 
many of the evergreens may be propagated by means of cuttings 
made at this time. Select the healthiest and most robust of the 
young wood; and if frozen when cut, restore to normal condition 
by plunging in cold water. 
Hardwood cuttings of well-ripened deciduous plants may also be se¬ 
cured now, and prepared for rooting. 
Supplying the Family with Fruit 
In the home garden the orchard is usually quite restricted in area, 
and oftentimes some other phase of gardening has to be omitted to 
make room. How about intercropping the orchard? It is worth 
the effort, and can be made profitable. Fruit trees may also be in¬ 
troduced into the general plantings—thus serving two purposes. 
Locality and the demands of the family will be determining factors as 
to what crops one can use to advantage Strawberries will thrive 
almost anywhere, so will Currants, Gooseberries, Blackberries, and 
many of the smaller vegetables, in addition to Melons, Tomatoes, 
and Cucumbers. 
Pruning and Spraying 
Continue these outdoor duties as circumstances permit and weather is 
not freezing, using lime-sulphur or miscible oil, both at the full 
strength, while growth is dormant. 
CONTINUING THE GARDEN UNDER GLASS 
1 VE air to the Celery on all favorable occasions. 
Remove the covering from the coldframes on good days. 
Rhubarb and Asparagus may be taken into the forcing house. 
While it hardly pays to grow Potatoes in the greenhouse in view of the 
early dates on which new Southern Potatoes are available, yet 
where one has room a few of an early variety may be grown in 
pots or on a bench. A cool temperature is absolutely essential 
at the beginning—it is better to start at 40° than higher. As 
time passes, however, they respond to a rise in temperature con¬ 
sistent with increasing growth. Tubers used for this mode of 
culture should be allowed to develop sprouts in shallow flats in a 
light but cool position near the glass in order that the sprouts may 
be sturdy. Give drainage in the bottom of the pots and light 
porous soil covering the sets about two inches. Bv using ten-or 
twelve-inch pots sufficient room will be left to allow of top-dressing 
as growth increases. 
Early Peas may be grown under similar conditions and soil, adding a 
little bonemeal. Sow about ten seeds to a pot and thin out 
later to half a dozen plants. After planting, both Peas and Pota¬ 
toes may set under the bench until the growth is a few inches 
high when give all the light possible. 
Start into growth Rambler Roses for Easter decoration. Forty-five 
degrees is enough for the first couple of weeks, and gradually in¬ 
crease as growth develops until 6o° is reached. 
Start Spireas toward the end of the month. Calla Lilies in pots will 
need top-dressing, or feed twice a week with liquid cow manure. 
Asparagus Sprengeri is a prodigious feeder; and if young plants 
are needed sow now. 
Look over the stock of Geraniums, give them room and light so that 
strong, sturdy cuttings may be produced for propagating later 
on. 
Giganteum Lilies will now have several inches of growth. Keep free of 
insect pests and give a temperature of 6o° at night. 
Easter this year falls on April 20th. 
For Indoor Decoration 
A change from the winter flowering Roses and Carnations is always 
welcome by April and May for indoor decoration, and Shirley 
Poppies and Hunnemannias sown about the middle of the month 
will give something that cannot well be bought. Neither stand 
transplanting very well. 
Keeping Carnations, Orchids etc. in Prime Flower 
Weak stems on Carnations are evidence of too high temperature. 
Rust is induced by having the foliage wet overnight, and is most 
prevalent on plants lacking vigor. Spray with \ oz. potassium 
sulphide to 2 gallons water. 
Amaryllis that have ripened their growth to be taken into the work 
room and either repotted or top-dressed as they may require. 
Do this when the flower spikes begin to show an inch or so, as they 
often do in January. 
Early flowering Snapdragons that have grown into bushy specimens 
with plenty of buds and bloom on them to be fed if they are to 
maintain good quality. Sheep manure, mixed with equal parts of 
loam or bonemeal, makes a good top-dressing. 
Gloxinias started now will furnish nice decorative plants by May. 
Set the bulbs in flats of sandy soil until they have started. The 
growing compost should be light and rich—1 part fibrous loam, 1 
part leaf-mold, 1 sand, and 1 old hotbed manure, or sheep manure. 
Shade the plants as the sun gains power. 
The foliage of that wonderful terrestrial Orchid, Calanthe, will now be 
all off the plants, and little moisture is needed at the roots. A 
night temperature of 65° should be afforded. 
Cattleya Trianae will flower during the month. It needs to be kept 
somewhat dry during its flowering period. A temperature of 
50° at night is enough. 
Gardenias may be propagated now. The young tips of the flowering 
shoots make good cuttings. They require a closed frame with 
plenty of bottom heat and moisture. Spray frequently overhead 
to attain this end. When rooted, pot into equal parts of loam and 
leaf soil. Add bonemeal in later pottings. They require plenty 
of light and a night temperature of 6o°. Keep growing freely un¬ 
til time for benching in June. 
With an Eye to Easter 
Wallflowers potted last fall and wintered in frames to be brought into 
a temperature of 50°. 
Hardy Phlox lifted last fall, as well as Hardy Larkspurs placed in a 
carnation house, will furnish new growth for cutting in four weeks. 
Sow Stocks and Clarkias for flowering indoors in late spring. Start 
Hydrangeas for Easter in a temperature of 50°. Give Gardenias 6o° 
at night at this season. Plan out now how many summer bed¬ 
ding plants will be needed, for propagation indoors is to begin. 
The Lorraine and Cincinnati types of Begonias may be propagated by 
cuttings, and the stock of Bedding Begonias of the fibrous type 
increased by cuttings and seed, as also Lobelias and Petunias. 
Take cuttings of Fuchsia, Heliotrope, and Stevia, each from the young 
wood. Canterbury-bells do well in a temperature of 45 0 ; plants 
for Easter flowering and later may be brought in from the frames. 
A Step Ahead of Spring 
Seeds of such annuals as require early sowing to be ordered at once and 
sown when received. Clean pots, pans, and other receptacles is 
old advice worth repeating. With tine seeds like Petunias, Lobe¬ 
lias, Fibrous Begonias, etc., saturate the soil some time previous 
to sowing with a fine rose on the sprinkling can, or by holding the 
receptacles in a vessel of water. * 
Many perennials will flower the first season if sown now in a warm 
greenhouse. In gardens where Hollyhocks are troubled with rust 
this treatment is beneficial. They require generous treatments in 
the way of compost, as a large amount of growth has to be made in 
a short time. 
Seeds of Primula Kewensis may be sown now and grown on for flower¬ 
ing a year hence. Sow seeds of Pennisetum longistylum now to 
have good plants by bedding-out time. Pot off the seedlings 
singly and be careful with the water as they damp readily. 
Seeds of Jerusalem and Cleveland Cherries should be sown early. If 
preferred, cuttings from old plants may be rooted. Avoid hard 
wood, taking the cuttings only from the young wood. Avoid 
shading the young plants; they may be grown along in the same 
temperature as Primulas and Cyclamen, until time for planting 
outdoors, or frame culture in pots. 
Seeds of English Daisies, Forget-me-nots, and Pansies, sown now, will 
make nice plants for spring planting. Seeds of Vincas, and 
Pentstemons,Verbenas, Aquilegias, Snapdragons, and Shasta 
Daisies may be sown for bedding. 
