CULTURAL DIRECTIONS 
BEARDED IRIS 
The prime requisites for bearded iris are good drainage 
and sunshine. Iris planted in the deep shade will produce 
foliage only. A good loamy soil of medium richness is pref¬ 
able but they will grow in almost any nonacid ground. If 
the drainage is poor, raised beds should be prepared. Where 
the soil is heavy a little lime or wood ashes will make for 
better drainage and prevent the ground from getting sour. If 
the soil is very thin a little bone meal is the safest fertilizer, 
but ordinarily, they are better off without fertilizer. Too 
much is likely to encourage root rot. 
Iris are best transplanted during the dormant season, 
which is after they have blossomed till late fall, and should 
be replanted while the ground is still warm enough to start 
a new root system. This time varies in different parts of the 
country. June, July and August are the best months in the 
northern states and September for the southern states where 
summers are hot and dry. 
If the rhizomes appear dry on arrival, no concern need 
be felt as these plants are very drought resistant. They should, 
however, be planted as soon as possible, with the roots well 
firmed into the ground and the tops of the rhizomes left 
exposed to the sun. They should be watered every two weeks 
till they become established. Do not overdo the watering for 
fear of causing root rot. In our uniformly cool climate we 
rarely have to water any more than the new plantings of iris. 
If, however, the spring rains are over early, we give the 
gardens a good surface watering. If the fall rains are very 
late in coming we water them to start the new growth. In 
warmer climates more water will be needed, but bearded iris 
are not water lovers and more harm is done by giving them 
too much moisture than by their getting too dry. As these 
irises are very drought resistant, they are especially valuable 
for planting dry, sunny slopes. They should be kept free from 
weeds and other plants should not be allowed to cover them. 
The foliage of many varieties dies down so completely that it 
is hard to find the rhizomes during the winter. Where the 
winters are severe a good mulch will prevent heaving out of 
the ground with the spring thaws. 
When the clumps become crowded, usually in three years, 
either the center should be cut out and replaced with new soil 
or the whole clump taken up, broken into its natural divisions 
and replanted. The top third of the leaves should be trimmed 
off, when the iris are transplanted. Single roots or at most 
double pronged ones are the best. If a clump effect is desired 
plant three or more roots of the same variety a foot or so 
apart. If the plants grow shabby in the fall it is better to pull 
off the dried leaves than to trim down the whole clump. 
DUTCH IRIS. Sunshine, rather than shade, is a requisite 
for the Dutch iris, and they prefer a warm, well-drained soil. 
In California and elsewhere where the weather is mild, 
Dutch iris can be planted as early as late September. Where 
winters are colder, November planting is advised so as to 
avoid too much winter growth foliage, and a protective mulch 
is required. 
Plant three to four inches deep, and two to four inches 
apart. 
After the blooming season is over, the stalks should be 
left to ripen before digging, and then the bulbs should be 
cured in the open (but protected from direct sunshine) before 
storing or replanting. Bulbs should not be kept out of the 
ground more than two months. 
SEEDS. When sown directly outdoors, large seeds, as 
nasturtiums, are usually planted about twice their thickness ; 
smaller ones scattered over well pulverized ground then covered 
lightly with a layer of finely pulverized soil or sand. Keep 
ground moist during germination and while plants are small. 
Thin if plants are too thick. 
If seeds are started in boxes or flats, be sure to see that 
the bottom of the flat provides good drainage. The soil should 
be made up of equal portions of leaf-mold (or peat), sand, and 
good garden loam. This should be screened to remove any 
hard lumps, stones or other coarse material. Wet the soil, 
preferably with boiling water the day before planting. When 
the soil has dried out sufficiently to permit planting, loosen 
the top slightly and plant seeds, not too close together. Barely 
cover with light soil, then firm the ground with a smooth piece 
of board. Cover the top of the flat with a newspaper or 
cheesecloth. If the ground is moist at time of planting, it will 
not be necessary to water at planting time. Too much water 
is apt to cause trouble. The ground should be kept “moist” 
not “wet”. When the seeds begin to come up, gradually lift 
the paper or cheese cloth to permit air and light. 
The plants should be transferred to other boxes when 
they begin to show the second pair of leaves. Prepare the 
soil as when seeds are just planted, but it is well to add a 
little well decayed manure to stimulate the growth of the 
young plants. Transplant to open ground when the young 
plants are two to four inches high, depending on the natural 
growth of the various plants. 
JAPANESE IRIS. Sunlight and moisture are the most 
necessary requirements. Drainage should be good, however. 
They are never placed directly in water, although sometimes 
grown on tiny islands, surrounded by fresh water. 
Unlike the bearded iris, they should be planted with the 
crowns buried—about two inches below the surface. Their 
soil preference is also different, for they like plenty of good 
fertilizer, and do best in acid soil. Peat moss will tend to 
add acidity to the soil, and also help to hold the moisture. 
Keep them well cultivated, and give them a light mulch for 
winter protection where required. 
DAFFODILS. Early fall planting, preferably not later 
than October, is suggested. Little fertilizing is necessary and 
soil requirements are not exacting, but deep digging, even 
to 18 inches, helps. Plant bulbs 5 to 8 inches deep, depending 
on their size. Daffodils like an abundance of water, par¬ 
ticularly if the early spring rains are short. It is not at all 
necessary to dig and replant daffodils each year. In fact, they 
usually do better when left in the ground for two or more years. 
TULIPS. Tulips can be planted to good advantage as 
late as Thanksgiving, or in California, as late as Christmas, 
although the very late plantings will not give as satisfactory 
results. Choose a good, sunny place, preferably sheltered from 
the wind. In regions of most intense heat, however, part 
(high) shade is better. 
Sandy loam is preferred to heavy soil, and should be dug 
deep—at least 12 inches, with fertilizer dug well under the 
bulbs. The bulb base should be approximately eight inches 
below the surface, and planting may be from 5 to 8 inches 
apart, depending on the effect desired. Tulips do not like 
wet soil or need much water. When through blooming, allow 
to die down naturally. They can be left in or transplanted, 
as desired. 
HYACINTHS. Culture of these fine spring flowers is 
comparatively simple. Choose a good soil, and dig the fertil¬ 
izer (bone meal or old manure) deep below the bulbs. Plant 
the hyacinths about 5 inches deep, in a sunny place, except 
where the spring heat is unusual. Half shade is then advis¬ 
able. The bulbs do as well when left in the ground as when 
lifted yearly. 
26 
