DEAR CUSTOMER FRIENDS: 
We submit the following list of lilies and other bulbs and plants, not as being 
a collection of all that are worthwhile, but as including many of the best and 
most of those we have tried and found suitable to general culture. Last season 
we sold too close on some varieties, necessitating their withdrawal from our list 
for the present. Among these are four of the new Griffiths Hybrids. The variety 
Shuksan, which is the hardiest and most dependable, is available in ample 
supply. 
Beginners should read carefully “Notes on Lily Culture”, also the special 
instructions accompanying descriptions of each kind. If you have problems 
requiring our help, we shall be pleased to hear from you, but kindly read the 
instructions first and see if they will not answer your questions. 
If unfamiliar with lilies or puzzled regarding what kinds to choose, try one 
or more of the collection offers. They have been selected for all-around satis¬ 
faction and dependability. 
Our sincere aim is to supply only the best of stock, healthy and true to name, 
but should there be any cause for dissatisfaction, we hope you will notify us 
promptly. Your patronage is greatly appreciated. 
Notes on Lily Culture 
Accompanying the descriptions of the various lilies, we have set forth the 
cultural requirements of each except the very easy sorts. In general, lilies are 
not more difficult to grow than other herbaceous perennials, some of which 
may be grown under a wide variety of conditions and others of which require 
special treatment to thrive. Usually it is comparatively easy to provide the 
needs of the more exacting varieties when these are understood. 
An ideal soil for most lilies is one which is sufficiently porous to permit 
fast drainage of winter rainfall but rich in humous which will retain moisture 
for the plants during the summer. Heavy soils may be improved by liberal 
additions of sand and leaf mold. On low ground, it is often advisable to throw 
out the soil to a depth of two feet and place at the bottom a layer of old cans, 
brick-bats or other material which will provide under-drainage. In back-filling, 
sand can be added to the soil if needed. 
The common idea that the stem rooting lilies are the only ones that need 
deep planting is a fallacy. Many of those that root from bulb only, will do 
much better if planted 10 to 12 inches deep where the moisture content is 
greater and there is more protection from winter cold. Additionally, the rootless 
stems need the greater depth of soil to hold themselves erect without staking. 
Do not make the mistake, however, of planting Liliums candidum and giganteum 
himalaicum deeply. 
In districts ivhere late spring frosts are common, it will be well to select a 
sheltered spot with the protection of low-growing shrubs or ferns. The shade of 
these helps also to keep the ground cool and moist later on which is very 
beneficial. A mulch of leaf-mold will retain moisture and provide just the sort 
of plant food lilies need. Wherever possible, avoid the use of manures in fer¬ 
tilizing lilies. They tend to spread injurious soil organisms such as symphilids 
(garden centipeds) which destroy the tender roots and often attack the bulbs. 
We believe this accounts for the loss of many of the white-bulbed lilies which 
are especially susceptible. Leothrips sometimes attack lily bulbs that are 
planted shallow in loose soil. Deep planting will tend to check the depredations 
of these and other insect pests. Bulbs so infested may be cleaned up by sealing 
for an hour or more in a vessel containing a few drops of carbon disulphide. 
Much trouble with lilies could be avoided by planting clean, healthy bulbs in new 
soil and thenceforth using only leaf-mold from under deciduous trees as 
fertilizer. 
