TRANSPLANTING TREES AND SHRUBS 
PREPARING THE SOIL. Fruit trees flourish best in a naturally dry soil; too much moisture retards 
growth. Plow at least twice, following the common plow the second time with the subsoil plow. Fresh lands 
will not need manure or fertilizers but lands exhausted through constant cropping should be fertilized either 
by turning under clover or well decomposed manure or compost. Land that is in good condition for wheat 
corn or potatoes will be well adapted to fruit trees. 
PLANTING. Dig the hole larger than is necessary to admit all the roots in their natural position, keeping 
the surface soil and subsoil separate. Have the tree held in an upright position while the earth is shovelled 
in, the best soil being sifted in among the roots. Make sure that all the roots come in contact with the soil 
When the earth is nearly filled in, pour in water to wash the soil around the roots; then fill up the remainder 
and tread down gently with the foot. It is only necessary to use water in dry weather. 
Don’t plant too deep; the trees should stand about the way they did in the nursery. Trees on dwarf 
stock should be planted so that all the stock is below the ground, only the graft appearing above the surface. 
STAKING.—Extra tall trees or those much exposed to the wind should be supported by a stake. Take 
care that no chafing of the tender bark occurs. 
MULCHING. -After the tree is set, cover the ground within a radius of two to three feet with five or six 
inches of manure or litter. This mulching is necessary in dry ground and is good practice in spring and fall 
planting. 
PRUNING. —All fruit trees require more or less pruning from year to year. While the tree is young the 
head should be formed, and unnecessary branches taken out. The best time to prune is late in the winter 
or in early spring, when no more severe weather is anticipated. 
PREPARING THE TREES.—In removing 
the tree in the nursery row, no matter how care¬ 
fully the work is done a portion of the roots are 
broken, and the balance that existed in the tree 
is destroyed. To make up for this, remove the 
broken or mutilated portions so as to leave the 
ends round and smooth. Never plant a tree 
exactly as it is received from the nursery until it 
has been thoroughly examined and the necessary 
pruning done. Proper pruning is determined by 
the size, form and condition of the tree. 
CARRYING STOCK THROUGH THE 
WINTER. -The practice of procuring supplies of 
trees in the fall is becoming more and more general. 
It is a more favorable time than spring, because 
the stock has just entered into dormant condition. 
Even when fall planting is not desirable by reason 
of severity of the climate, the stock may be pro¬ 
cured in the fall, and thus be on hand ready for 
the opportune moment in the spring. 
To insure success you have only to get' the 
trees before freezing weather, and bury them in 
the following manner: Choose a dry spot .where 
no water will stand during the winter, with no 
grass near it to invite mice. Dig a trench, throw¬ 
ing out enough dirt to admit one layer of roots 
below the surface, and place the trees in it, inclined 
at an angle of forty-five degrees or more. Widen 
the trench, throwing the soil among the roots in 
position, place another layer in the trench, reclining 
the tops on the others, and so on until all are in 
the trench; then finish by throwing up more soil 
until the tips of the trees are nearly or quite 
covered. It is also well to bank up the earth 
around the sides to insure more thorough- protec¬ 
tion. The exposed tops should then be covered- 
with pine boughs, which insures them against any 
possibility of injury. Care should be taken to 
fill solid all the interstices among the roots. Too 
much care in doing this cannot be insisted upon, 
as every root which is not in close contact with 
the soil is sure to be killed. In the spring the 
trees will be on hand for transplanting at the 
earliest moment possible to do the work. 
CARE OF STOCK INJURED BY FROST 
OR LONG EXPOSURE.—Place the unopened 
packages in a cellar or any cool place that is free 
. . from frost. Leave them there until the stock is 
thawed out. It can then be unpacked and planted or “heeled in.” 
stock more^^VlyTh«nrdXny e ' ^ “ ,he gr0Und ’ ° r Soak io wa,er from 12 to 24 hours ' such 
SPRAYING 
w* a J l has now t >ecome a necessary operation for success in fruit growing. 
fbA f ° r <U 7 < £2f # ?£ ray , cal «ndara, etc. AU the experiment stations have bulletins on 
r Pf t th f m 1 nd horticultural papers give considerable space to that branch of the business. 
Get these bulletins, pamphlets, etc., and follow their instructions and you will find that, even if you have 
before ’ l* 1 ®* you have so much more and so much better that the spraying will 
pay for itself many times, over, to say nothing of the added satisfaction. 
Pairs of Trees Showing Them as Received from the 
Nursery and After Being Pruned for Planting. 
1 Kieffer Pear, 2 Peach 3 Dwarf 
Duchess 4 Quince 
