2 
TRANSPLANTING DIRECTIONS: 
PREPARATION OP THE SOIL. 
For fruit trees, the condition of the 
soil must be such as would be adapted to 
grow successfully farm crops. If the land 
on which you are to plant your trees is 
not in such condition you can make it so 
by thoroughly underdraining, deep plow¬ 
ing and subsoiling. 
PREPARING THE TREES FOR 
PLANTING. 
The broken or mutilated portions of 
the roots must be cut off, so as to leave 
the ends smooth and sound, and the ends 
of all the other roots should be pruned. 
From these endg the new fibrous roots 
usually start. 
PLANTING. 
The hole must be large enough to re¬ 
ceive the roots freely, without cramping 
or bending them from their natural posi¬ 
tion. Let the tree be the same depth it 
stood in the nursery (the old mark can 
be readily discerned). The tree being 
held upright, the finest and best earth 
from the surface should be carefully 
worked among the roots with the fingers, 
filling every space, and bringing every 
root in contact with it. Set the tree as 
firm as a post, hnt leave the surface fill¬ 
ing light and loose. 
MULCHING. 
This is done by placing a layer of 
straw, weeds or coarse manure from three 
to six inches deep, extending one or two 
feet further in each direction than the 
roots. This protects the earth about the 
roots against drying or baking with wind 
or sun, retains the requisite moisture, and 
obviates all occasion for a practice gener¬ 
ally of injurious effects—the watering 
newly planted trees, 
PRUNING. 
The stepis should now be put in posi¬ 
tion for the formation of the top, by re¬ 
moving all the limbs to the point where 
it is desired to have the top; then cut 
back each remaining limb, leaving from 
four to six buds of last season’s growth. 
In the absence of any limbs suitable to 
form a top, cut the tree down to the re¬ 
quisite height, leaving the dormant buds 
to make the top. 
The business of pruning vigorously at 
time of setting is generally a very un¬ 
grateful one to the planter, as it injures 
for a time the appearance of the tree to 
an unpracticed eye. It should, however, 
be unhesitatingly performed, all the 
branches to the extent of at least one-half 
the length of the previous year’s growth 
being removed. Care should also be used 
to give the proper form to the tree. The 
head may be left high or low, as the 
taste of the planter may prefer, or as the 
nature ofthe tree in some cases may re¬ 
quire. 
STAKING. 
If the trees are tall or in exposed 
situations, they should be supported by 
stakes to prevent injury from the action 
of the wind. Staking is done in the best 
manner by driving two strong stakes 
firmly into the ground, one on each side 
of the tree, about a foot distant from it, 
and fasten the tree between them with a 
band of straw, or other soft material, so 
that it may be kept in an upright posi¬ 
tion, without chafing, till the roots obtain 
a firm hold upon the soil. 
SHADING. 
The trunks of all transplanted trees 
should be protected from the hot after¬ 
noon sun by shakes, cornstalks or other 
convenient material during the first sum¬ 
mer. If not so protected the bark is 
often killed near the ground by the direct 
and reflected heat of the sun. When¬ 
ever this happens the borer moth is sure 
to find it and lay her eggs, which soon 
