HINTS ON GROWING DAHLIAS 
Always plant your dahlias in a sunny location, and in 
a well drained spot. The use of well rotted manure, 
rotted lawn clippings or rich soil from the compost 
heap is advised unless you are satisfied the ground is 
rich. This does not mean that dahlias demand rich soil, 
but they will do better on it. Plant the root 6 inches 
deep and cover with 2 inches of fine soil, gradually 
filling up to the level as plant progresses in growth. 
Plants are planted about 8 inches deep, first removing 
the leaves that will be covered up by the soil when it 
attains its level; afterwards it is handled quite the 
same way. Before the plants have made too much 
growth, a stake 4 feet long should be driven about 6 
inches away from the plant, and immediately start ty¬ 
ing the plant to it with soft cord or ribbons torn from 
cloth, always being sure not to tie too tightly to cause 
girdling or pinching of the plant stem. For large 
blooms the plant should be pinched back after it has 
made three sets of leaves. Pinch out the top; this will 
make the plant throw up 6 lateral branches; remove all 
lateral growth from the leaf axis on the laterals with 
the exceptions of the two on the lower leaf axis next 
to the main stem; remove all buds that form but the 
main bud in the center of the cluster on the end of the 
stem, this bud will produce the large bloom you want. 
After the first bloom has been cut, the two lower later¬ 
als left next to the main stem will be allowed to grow 
and bloom. When cutting the blooms, cut as much of 
the stem as can be cut without injuring the two tender 
laterals left. If tall plants are wanted, do not pinch out 
the top, but remove all leaf laterals until plant has at¬ 
tained the desired height. Always keep the surface of 
the ground loose, and after each watering or rain, hoe 
and rake over; this will aid air absorption and conserve 
moisture. If it is desired to use some fertilizer, you 
may use to five plants, one pound of ground bone meal, 
1 l A to 2 pounds of sheep manure and about three 
pounds of sifted wood ashes that have never been wet 
(after ashes have been wet they lose their strength) ,* 
mix all together and spread around the plants and 
water liberally (not sprinkled). Do not start watering 
until the buds have begun to show, unless season is 
dry, and then water about every ten days (don’t 
sprinkle but thoroughly soak the ground). A good 
spraying of the plants and the under side of the leaves 
once a week is good insurance. I always use Black 
Leaf ‘40’ Nicotine Sulphate. To a gallon of water add 
one teaspoon of Nicotine and l A teaspoon of Arsenate 
of Lead. This most always gives complete control. Cut 
your flowers late at night or very early morning while 
the dew is on them; place them in cold water and recut 
the stem while it is submerged and place out of all 
drafts of air. Never cut your flowers in the heat of the 
day if you want them to stand up and last. After the 
plants are frozen down in the fall, cut the stalks off 
close to the ground and dig very carefully so that you 
do not break the necks on the roots. Store in a card¬ 
board box; place the clump of roots upside down to 
allow all the remaining sap to dry off or drain away; 
cover the box up tightly to exclude the drying air and 
place in a cool and moist place, free from frost. Peek 
into the box once in a while to see that there is no rot 
or mildew; if rot or mildew is seen, cut away all rot 
and dust with common sulphur; dry the roots for a 
day or two and replace them the same as before. 
Never plant but one root with an eye or sprout on it 
in a place; planting a whole clump or roots like that 
which was dug in the fall means complete failure. 
It should always be divided before planting. 
Sincerely yours, Manley Webb (Manager). 
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