WrigJitsville, Penna. 
37 
In pruning, make a clean, sharp cut. Do not leave stub 
ends in removing branches. Pruning shears, knives and 
hand saws are the best tools to use. All tools should be 
sharp. 
FRUIT TREES. One of the most important items in the 
care of fruit trees is to see that they are trained right 
from the start. Our two-year-old and larger sizes have 
the heads already formed, with three to five scaffold 
limbs well arranged along the trunk to support the head. 
These trees should be cut back, leaving just the scaffold 
limbs shortened to the point where it is desired to have 
the head of the tree. 
One-year trees, or whips, should be trimmed to smooth, 
straight stems, cutting them squarely off at the distance 
from the ground at which it is desired to have them 
branch. .Usually, apples, plums, pears, and cherries are 
headed a little higher than peaches, which ought to be 
encouraged to branch as low as possible. 
SHADE TREES. With shade trees having a heavy top 
at least one-third of the top should be removed. Prune 
to avoid crowding branches. Cut out some of the small 
branches, shorten back the side branches, but do not 
cut off the leader or main stem. Try to get well de¬ 
veloped head, strong leader and branches at wide, not 
close, angles. Cut off all broken roots. 
SHRUBS. It is easiest to prune shrubs before they are 
planted. This is likewise the only time the roots can 
be pruned. Cut off damaged or frayed roots just above 
the point affected. Thin out tops of many branched 
shrubs, removing the old wood. Cut tops back from 
one-third to one-half. 
EVERGREENS. At planting time evergreens seldom 
need pruning. If well grown like ours they are shapely 
and when handled with balls of soil they should grow off 
without trouble. However in a year or so some varieties 
are inclined to grow “open.” Then shearing may be 
done with hedge tools, clipping the young growth, 
preferably not further than that made the previous 
season. This causes the inner branches to advance 
making a very close and compact plant, thus hiding the 
unsightly interior of open trees. Topping, too, may be 
done but please try and cut to a small branch that will 
again develop into a leader. Chopping the tops off flat 
often makes good trees resemble a sawed-off board or 
log. Important—Prune evergreens when they are 
growing—better just as the spring growth comes on and 
at least before it becomes hard in July. 
WINTER PROTECTION FOR EVERGREENS. Ever¬ 
greens during the first Winter after planting should have 
some form of protection. Wind and sun may cause 
damage on account of excessive evaporation of moisture 
from the foliage at a time when no moisture is being 
taken in through the roots. When subject to alternate 
freezing and thawing protect also against heaving of 
the soil. 
Moisture evaporation may be prevented by the erection 
of a burlap shield as a windbreak to ward off strong 
drying winds. Avoid wrapping too tightly or injury to 
the plant will result from heating of foliage. 
To prevent heaving of the soil provide a ground mulch of 
strawy manure, cut tobacco stems or any material (other 
than fresh manure) which will form a light, loose 
covering. 
Be sure, too, that the ground is thoroughly saturated 
with moisture before it finally freezes up, and leave no 
holes near the plants for the water to collect and freeze. 
