GARDEN WORK IN MAY 
By Ernest Hemming 
A LL danger from frost being over, the most 
^ * important work in May will be the planning 
and planting of what are known as the summer bed¬ 
ding plants. Where a mass of continuous bloom is 
wanted, there is nothing quite the equal of this class 
of plants: geraniums, cannas, lantanas, petunias, 
verbenas, and heliotropes being the most popular. 
Then there are the coleus, crotons, alternanthera etc., 
for foliage effects, and cannas, grasses, elephant’s 
ears, castor oil plants, palms, dracaenas and such like 
for sub-tropical effects. Many annuals like the 
nasturtium, ageratum, scarlet sage, and alyssum, 
may be used to advantage in combination with them. 
In preparing a bed that is isolated on the lawn, dig 
it deeply and work in some well rotted manure; to 
look well such a bed should be slightly raised in the 
centre and the surface made a nice contour before 
planting, this will cause the centre plants to be slight¬ 
ly raised and give the whole a better appearance. 
Borders against a wall or other background should be 
slightly raised at the back, for the same reason. 
The lawn now requires to be mown weekly, if not 
oftener, to keep it in good shape. The customary 
way is to run the machine over it raking up the grass 
after it is done. A better way is to have a box or 
some arrangement attached to the machine to catch 
it, it will save raking and is better for the lawn. Rol¬ 
ling after a rain will do much towards producing a 
nice level turf. 
Shrubbery should be looking at its best as the 
majority of shrubs flower this month so there is not 
much to do among them except to keep tidy and en¬ 
joy them. A little time spent among them observing 
their habits of flowering wdl be very useful and pre¬ 
vent errors in pruning another season, also to learn 
the names of the most desirable in other gardens to be 
procured when the proper planting season arrives. 
There is nothing more lovely than the flowering 
peaches, cherries and crabs. While the bloom is 
rather transient, a place should be found for Pyrus 
Ioensis, Pyrus coronaria, Primus triloba and the 
Japanese weeping cherry, Cerasus pendula , rosea. 
If the weather is at all moist, this is an excellent 
time to transplant evergreens, as they may be moved 
much later than deciduous trees and shrubs. I bis 
class of plants usually has a formal habit of growth 
and always matures into fine specimens when their 
symmetry is not spoilt by crowding. To move an 
evergreen, first tie up all the branches so they will not 
get broken or be in the way, then dig a trench around 
the tree keeping two or three feet away according to 
the size of the tree, when down to a depth of two feet 
reduce the ball of earth to a convenient size for hand¬ 
ling, preserving all the roots possible. The aim is to 
keep as much soil on the roots as possible. Have a 
hole dug ready for its reception, carefully gaging the 
proper depth; when placed in the hole, ram the soil 
firmly around it. If manure is used see that it is well 
rotted. Should dry weather succeed the operation, 
an occasional watering will be beneficial. 
It is now almost too late to move deciduous trees 
and shrubs, but should it be necessary, prune them 
sharply, reducing the branches fully one third, and 
spray them in the evenings to prevent the wood from 
shrivelling until the roots become active in their new 
quarters. 
In the flower garden almost all kinds of seeds may 
be sown and all kinds of planting finished up except 
in those localities where there is still danger of frost. 
Do not allow the sweet peas to fall down for the want 
of support, they will never be quite so good as when 
trained straight up without a check. When they are 
about six inches high they will be benefited by being 
earthed up. It is a very common error to sow seed 
too thick. Where the seedlings are coming up too 
thick thin out freely, it is better to have one good 
plant than a dozen weaklings. A moist dull day 
should be chosen for transplanting and each plant 
lifted with a little earth if possible. 
Hoe, hoe, and hoe again is the rule for the vegetable 
garden, even when apparently unnecessary it is never 
a waste of energy, the ground being kept in a nice 
loosened condition prevents much suffering during 
dry weather. 
Carrots, turnips, parsnips, onions, beets and such 
like should be thinned out just as soon as they can be 
handled, six inches apart should be the minimum 
distance, if good large roots are wanted. Sow corn 
every two weeks to insure a continuous supply. 
Those not acquainted with the merits of the different 
varieties should try the “Country Gentleman.’’ 
Set the poles in place and sow lima beans. I rans- 
plant tomatoes, cabbage, cauliflower, brussels 
sprouts, lettuce, choosing a dull day if possible. Sow 
self blanching celery in shallow boxes or a specially 
prepared bed of rich earth, so as to have good strong 
plants ready to plant in the trenches at the proper 
season. Some of the early crops such as potatoes, 
peas and French beans will have been harvested by 
the time the celery has to be planted in the trenches, 
and the ground will be free for this purpose. Ar¬ 
range if possible to plant celery where the soil is 
moist and deep. Cucumbers, melons, and squash 
like rich, light, well-drained soil. If the ground is 
inclined to be wet and heavy plant the seed in ridges or 
hills and keep the soil constantly stirred with the hoe. 
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