HOUSE AND GARDEN 
July, 
1912 
watch should be kept of the inner leaves of cabbages beginning 
to head, and as soon as any are found eaten, the green cabbage 
worm must be found and removed, as otherwise lie will work 
havoc within the outer layers of the head. If too numerous for 
hand picking, apply hellebore if the plants are heading, or kero¬ 
sene emulsion with Paris green if they have not begun to head. 
A wilting of the whole plant usually means that the root maggots 
are at work. Pull up and destroy all infected 
plants, being sure to get all the root. Stimu¬ 
late growth as much as possible as suggested 
for club-root. Make a hole with the dibber, 
five or six inches deep, and put in about ten 
drops of carbon bisulphide and close up the 
hole. 
Carrot. This crop is particularly free 
from diseases and insects. The carrot or 
parsley worm, an inch to two inches long, 
handsomely spotted, and with false head just 
above the real head, and two yellow horns, 
protruded when it is touched, usually ap¬ 
pears, but not in great abundance. Hand 
picking is the best remedy. 
Celery. Early blight begins as a spotting 
and discoloration of the leaves. Late blight, 
late in the season or even after trenching or 
storing. Growing plants in partial shade, and 
spraying with ammonical copper carbonate, 
keeping new growth covered with it, will 
save the crop. For the celery caterpillar, 
quite large and green, with yellow spots, 
hand pick. 
Chrysanthemum. Dark-brown spots, 
gradually increasing in size, denote leaf- 
spot. Small reddish brown spots, caused by ‘‘rust.” For either, 
spray with Bordeaux (4-4-50) and avoid wetting the foliage when 
watering. Curled leaves, and generally sickly appearance, are 
usually a sign that the aphis, green or black, is at work. Tobacco 
dust and aphine are remedies. 
Corn. Sometimes large, white-covered protuberances, filled at 
maturity with a black or grayish powdery “smut.” Cut out and 
burn at once, to 
prevent further 
spreading of the 
disease. For the 
“ ear - worm,” 
which sometimes 
eats the imma¬ 
ture kernels be¬ 
neath the husk, 
plant early and 
use varieties with 
long husks. 
Cucumber and 
Musk-melon. I f 
the leaves begin 
to turn brown 
premature¬ 
ly, spray at once 
with Bordeaux, 
for blight or mil¬ 
dew. The safest 
way to prevent it 
is to spray every 
two weeks during 
growth. A wilted 
appearance of the 
plants may be 
caused either by the disease called “wilt,” or by too much richly 
nitrogenous fertilizer. In the former case, it is almost sure to be 
accompanied by the striped cucumber beetle, which spreads the 
bacteria causing the disease. If so, get rid of the beetles at once, 
by using arsenate of lead and tobacco dust applied thoroughly 
while the dew is on. The beetles may be kept off entirely by 
using boxes covered with mosquito netting or thin muslin over 
the hills, and this is far the best and most 
efficient way. Sometimes the fruits are eaten 
into by the melon worm, an inch or so long 
and light green. Hellebore will control 
them. 
Egg-plant. The row of egg-plants must 
be watched daily, as potato bugs have a great 
fondness for both the leaves and the stems of 
fruit and blossoms, and if allowed a start will 
make short work of the entire planting. Ar¬ 
senate of lead during early growth, and later 
hand picking in a pan of water and kerosene. 
Hollyhock. Of late years this old favorite 
has been abandoned in many sections on ac¬ 
count of attacks of the “rust” which fre¬ 
quently destroys the leaves. It appears as 
small, reddish-brown, pimply spots, leaving 
deep pits. Pick off at once all suspicious- 
looking leaves and spray thoroughly with 
Bordeaux, keeping all new growth well cov¬ 
ered until buds show. 
Onion. The foliage is sometimes given a 
wilted appearance by the presence of mildew. 
Spray with Bordeaux every ten days. A pre¬ 
mature dying of the tops is often caused by 
the attacks of “thrips,” very minute yellow¬ 
ish insects. Kerosene emulsion or tobacco, if applied in time, will 
tend to drive them off. A wilting of the whole plant, when a third 
to a half grown, is almost a sure sign that the root maggot, similar 
to that which attacks the cabbage group, is at work. Similar rem¬ 
edies are recommended, but I have never found it practical to 
apply them to any large extent. Remove carefully and destroy at 
once all wilted plants as the maggots will travel along the row. 
Potato. The 
foliage is often 
attacked during 
July by the 
“early” blight, 
showing as an 
even circular spot 
on the leaves. 
Later in the sea¬ 
son, a similar but 
more extensive 
and irregular de¬ 
struction occurs 
from the “late 
blight” which also 
penetrates to the 
potatoes them¬ 
selves and causes 
rotting. Bor¬ 
deaux spraying 
prevents both, but 
must be begun 
early and thor- 
o u g h 1 y carried 
out to the end of 
(Continued on 
page 62) 
The knap-sack sprayer is worked by a 
lever that runs over the shoulder 
When the leaves curl and shrink like this you may 
look for sucking insects 
Holes in the leaves such as this demand treat¬ 
ment for chewing insects 
