HOUSE AND GARDEN 
July, 
Dreer's Potted Plants 
for summer planting 
Roses, Hardy Peren¬ 
nials, Vines, Shrubs, 
Evergreens, etc. 
It is not necessary to wait till 
Fall or next Spring to fill up 
unsightly blanks in your Rose 
bed, Shrubbery or Hardy border. 
We will furnish you strong, 
sturdy, well established two 
year pot-grown plants which 
can be safely set out in the dry- 
est, hottest weather. 
Our Mid-Summer Catalogue, 
ready July 1st, is the most up-to-date 
and complete list of this class of stock 
ever published. It contains everything 
which may be planted during the sum¬ 
mer months. Plants of all kinds. Flower and 
Vegetable seeds. Lawn tools and essentials. Fertilizers, 
Insecticides, and a host of other helps to make garden¬ 
ing a pleasure. 
Copies will be mailed to all customers without application. 
If you are not on our list, send a postal for a copy. 
14 I7IM D V A FIDI717D714 Chestnut Street 
it L;iN iv I A. 14 lv Hi Hi iv Philadelphia, pa. 
THIS SUMMER 
IN YOUR NEW HOUSE YOU’LL 
WANT LOTS OF FRESH AIR AND 
YOU WON’T WANT FLIES 
Wide-flung casement windows properly 
screened will solve the problem, but only 
when operated by our patent adjusters from 
INSIDE the screens as pictured. 
Postalize us today for our illustrated Hand 
Book. It’s invaluable to Home-Builders. 
CASEMENT HARDWARE CO. 
175 N. State St., Chicago 
is very little used in the case of fruit trees, 
and as it offers no special advantages over 
those forms indicated it is scarcely worthy 
of a lengthy description here. It may be 
said that it is really a form of whip graft¬ 
ing, practiced on a smooth piece of root. 
For the information of those who in¬ 
tend to raise special stocks for their graft¬ 
ing operations, it may be mentioned that 
seedling crabs are the most suitable for all 
kinds of apples. Wild pear, or quince, 
raised from cuttings, do well for the in¬ 
serting of pear scions. Medlars may be 
grafted on pear stock, and plums on the 
wild kinds of this fruit. It has been said 
that the early months of the year are the 
best times to carry out the grafting, and 
most gardeners consider that the end of 
February is a very suitable period for the 
grafting of cherry, plum and pear, and 
somewhat later — say the middle of March 
— for apples. These dates must not be 
taken in any hard-and-fast sense, as much 
depends upon the locality and climate of 
the particular district. In any case, the 
work must be accomplished during a spell 
of mild, quiet weather. 
The practice of budding is one which is 
chiefly performed in the summer months. 
For the carrying out of this work a bud¬ 
ding knife is essential, qnd a quantity of 
raffia to use as tying material. In the case 
of most roses, excellent stocks are of 
course provided by the ordinary wild 
briars which should be well rooted por¬ 
tions. Some of the more delicate kinds of 
roses will produce better flowers and more 
of them when budded on a wild briar than 
when growing on their own stock. Of 
course, by the process of budding it is easy 
to form the standard trees which are such 
a charming feature on lawns. The time for 
budding has arrived when the bark on the 
bush from which the bud is to be taken 
comes away readily; this is usually to¬ 
wards the end of July or in the beginning 
of August. The method of placing the 
bud will probably be readily gathered 
from a study of the accompanying photo¬ 
graphs which were posed for me by a pro¬ 
fessional gardener. It may be mentioned 
that the stem from which the bud is taken 
should be of the current year’s growth. It 
is necessary in the first place to get ready 
the position in which the bud is to be in¬ 
serted, as the latter when once prepared 
must not be kept exposed to the air for 
more than a moment. The exact place 
where the bud is to be inserted having 
been decided upon, a cut is made trans¬ 
versely across the stock. This slit forms 
the head of a cut which, when the second 
incision has been made, should resemble 
the letter T. In making this cut the knife 
should be pressed down deeply, so that 
the blade actually touches the wood. The 
next step is to loosen the bark from the 
wood on all sides of the T cut; this is well 
accomplished by inserting the end of the 
knife, or better still, the flattened part of 
the handle, especially provided for this 
purpose, in the orthodox budding imple¬ 
ment. The method of carrying out the 
process may be readily seen from the illus- 
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