HOUSE AND GARDEN 
July, 
1912 
trations on page 29. All is now ready for 
the reception of the bud. Most careful 
workers take the cutting or shoot bearing 
the buds in a watering pot, so that several 
of the buds are as nearly ready as possible, 
it being inadvisable even in the case of the 
T cut to allow this to be exposed too long 
to the air. The bud with its bark and a 
little of the wood is cut away in the form 
of a shield; the point of the knife and the 
thumb nail are then employed to take 
away the little chip of wood. Immedi¬ 
ately, the bud is slipped into the T open¬ 
ing, and carefully bound, but not too 
tightly, with raffia. It will be observed 
that the leaves are generally taken away 
from the bud, although the stalk is allowed 
to remain. This is a convenience in han¬ 
dling the bud and is also doubtless of help 
in assisting the union. The resulting shoot 
will spring from the axil of the leaf stalk, 
which is of course the position of the bud. 
As a rule, cloudy weather is best for 
budding work, and where possible it is a 
good plan to choose the shady side of a 
stock for the work. In the formation of 
standard rose bushes the heads of the 
briars should be cut off, and only three 
shoots left, each of which is of course 
budded. In all cases we must remember 
that the bud takes effect only from above 
the union; all shoots which come from be¬ 
neath this, such as root suckers, will be re¬ 
versions to the original wild stock. Dwarf 
rose bushes must be cut to within six 
inches of the ground, the incision for the 
reception of the bud being made on the 
young side branches as near the stem as 
possible. If accomplished with reasonable 
care, budding is comparatively easy and 
should be carried through quite readily. 
A very hot sun striking on the budded por¬ 
tions is one of the most likely things to up¬ 
set the union, and in some climates it may 
even be necessary to employ a grafting 
wax to protect the exposed parts. If the 
tying material is used as shown in the 
photograph, this should hardly be neces¬ 
sary. 
A few words may be added here about 
the more general application of budding. 
The method has been largely employed 
for placing apricots on mussel plum 
stock, and also for introducing vigorous 
free-fruiting forms of peaches and nec¬ 
tarines upon vigorous stocks. As has al¬ 
ready been indicated, however, the chief 
use of the practice lies in the work which 
may be done in connection with roses. 
The Wild Garden 
(Continued from page 24) 
which they like as it is possible to do. 
And finally, do not bring these things in 
from the woods. Certain things may 
grow in such plenty that there may be no 
harm in a few persons helping themselves, 
yet it is generally a pernicious practice 
and for that reason merits the strongest 
disapproval we can give it. And certain 
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