October, 1912 
HOUSE AND GARDEN 
211 
Trees varv so widely in growth that each in itself is a 
separate problem and only the most general rules for 
pruning can he formulated. In brief it is the broad low 
tree with an open center that the modern orchardist aims 
to attain. 
Your old orchard may contain many of these “sky 
scrapers.” Even if you are able to spray and pick the 
fruit from such trees, if one should bear a fair load of 
fruit it is almost certain to be ruined near harvest by any 
summer wind storm and all of your labors will be wasted. 
These high headed trees as well as all old neglected 
trees need heroic treatment. A long ladder, a crosscut 
saw and good nerves are necessary. The high top must 
be brought back to earth even if you have to remove the 
present foliage-bearing part entirely and leave nothing 
but bare stubs. There are plenty of people who will tell 
you that this means death to the tree, but don't mind. 
You have seen plenty of trees receive harsher treatment 
by storms, yet survive. Thin out all surplus and inter¬ 
crossing limbs until you have a structure upon which to 
build your new growth. 
While an entirely new head is growing you cannot 
expect full crops and in extreme cases it may be three or 
four years until such may be borne. However, this is a 
much shorter time than is required to bring new or¬ 
chards into full bearing, and you need not be dis¬ 
couraged. In some cases it is advisable to extend the 
severe pruning over two or more seasons, which may in 
a degree result in larger crops the intervening years. 
However, it is surprising how very severe pruning will 
stimulate the life of the tree. The lower branches, 
sterile before, will bear profuse bloom and set freely. 
The fruit makes rapid growth and is not inclined to 
drop. The inner limbs that before had no opportunity 
will shoot forth and bear splendidly. A remarkable new 
growth takes place and the ugly stubs are soon hidden in 
a wealth of green foliage. Spraying is now a pleasure 
while insects and disease are kept in easy control. 
Clear the orchard of all sprouts and undergrowth and 
burn together with all the primings. Burning such trash 
will kill all insects hiding in it and prevent the spread of 
diseases. If the trunks and large limbs of the trees are 
shaggy they can be scraped off and sprayed and white¬ 
washed to prevent growth of moss or lichen. A clean 
orchard makes quick work possible and a neat appear¬ 
ance has much to do in retaining the interest of the own¬ 
ers and workmen. 
If the trees have received fair care during their 
growth the problem of pruning is much simplified and 
only a moderate amount of it needs be done. If the trees 
are low but long limbed do not hesitate to cut off a third 
or a half of the length. It is surprising what little labor is 
necessary to bring many orchards back into proper trim. 
In many orchards there are trees of obsolete or unde¬ 
sirable varieties. These may be top-grafted to newer or 
desirable kinds. It is preferable that top-grafted trees 
be young and vigorous. Also solid blocks of one va¬ 
riety are rarely advisable as many kinds are more or less 
sterile to their own pollen and pollen from the blossoms 
of other kinds will greatly improve the setting and size 
of the fruit. 
Among the several methods of top-working an apple 
tree to another variety, cleft-grafting is the most desir¬ 
able for old orchards under ordinary conditions. The 
operation is simple and may he performed by any intelli¬ 
gent workman. The limbs upon which the new wood is 
to grow are cut off low and square across. 
Late fall or winter pruning is advisable in cleaning up the old orchard. A com¬ 
parison with the picture below shows proper pruning 
Severe pruning stimulates the life of trees. By cutting for the open head, sym¬ 
metry and better bearing results are obtained 
This is an example of what cultivation and pruning and spraying will do in in 
creasing the apple yield and making the fruit easier to pick 
