October, 
HOUSE AND GARDEN 
239 
circumference. After once flowering here 
however, they are bound to take a season 
or two off, because, being fully mature 
themselves, they must go on to the next 
step in the life round and begin to repro¬ 
duce their kind. This reproduction is by 
means of offsets, and not until some of the 
offsets have reached early maturity can 
they in their turn blossom. 
Bulbs which are planted in the perma¬ 
nent garden and left untouched year after 
year, carry on this reproductive work all 
the time and are consequently at all times 
in all stages of growth. Therefore there 
are always offsets from the original bulb 
planted long after this has disappeared, 
which are blooming; and others from 
these which will take up the work where 
these leave off, and so on indefinitely. For 
this reason, however, it is well to lift and 
divide clumps every third or fourth year 
usually, lest they become too crowded by 
their own reproduction. 
Because the full size bulbs must have a 
season or two in which to reproduce, after 
blooming once in the garden here, it is 
really better to buy smaller bulbs for the 
garden; these will immediately begin pro¬ 
ducing offsets, even while blooming them¬ 
selves and there will be no gap of a year 
in bloom. And the first year’s flowers, 
though not as remarkable in size perhaps 
as the flowers from first size bulbs, will 
be quite as effective in the right kind of 
garden arrangement. 
What is true of hyacinths is true of all 
bulbs that are offered in different sizes. 
The largest or “first size’’ as the cata¬ 
logues give it, is the mature, healthy, prop¬ 
erly grown bulb; from this, different deal¬ 
ers grade down differently. None who is 
really high class offers seconds of narcis¬ 
sus, tulips, jonquils and the general run of 
bulbs, although the second size in crocus is 
frequently listed, and among' certain lilies 
two and even three sizes are usually of¬ 
fered. The first size crocus bulb will yield 
from six to a dozen flowers, while the sec¬ 
ond will not give more than half that num¬ 
ber—but in mass planting or naturalizing, 
this is sufficient. Practically the same dif¬ 
ference will be found with the lilies. 
Authorities differ on the depth at which 
bulbs should be planted, some claiming 
that deep planting is a cause of failure, 
others that it is the one thing necessary to 
insure success. The bulb’s size has the 
most to do with it, naturally, and the near¬ 
est that we may come to a general rule 
seems to be to plant each under one and a 
half times its own depth of soil. That is, 
the distance from the top of the bulb to 
the surface of the ground should be one 
and a half times the depth of the bulb 
from top to bottom. This will bring the 
bottom of some bulbs from ten to fifteen 
inches or more below the surface of the 
ground, but this is not too much. Certain 
lilies — especially Lilinin Harrisii and Lili- 
um longiflorum — in addition to rooting at 
the bottom of the bulb, throw out other 
roots from their stems after these have 
grown up from the bulb; these need earth 
of course to feed them, therefore the bulb 
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iiiniiiiiii 
The Classic Beauty of the Formal Garden 
Requires experience and skill in the selection and arrangement of plants and shrubbery, for soil and 
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