Blooms For Exhibition 
If you desire to grow large blooms for exhibition purposes -- we recom¬ 
mend that you buy large bulbs. 
If in your order you will state that you want bulbs for exhibition, 
we will take added pains to choose the largest bulbs we have in stock. 
We will do this at absolutely no extra cost to you. These bulbs will not 
make as many bulblets as the smaller bulbs do, but will give a stronger 
stalk, longer spike, and larger florets. 
How to plant and grow good Glads: First the bulbs you use to 
plant must be stored right. In the fall after bulbs are cured and cleaned, 
put them in a fairly warm place, about 60 degrees, for four weeks, 
sprinkle naphthalene flakes over them, about 1 ounce to every 100 
bulbs, cover with paper to confine the fumes. Then in about a month 
shake off the naphthalene and store at about 40 degrees. 
Just before planting bulbs, soak in a solution of corrosive sublimate 
using 1 ounce to 8 gallons of water to kill any thrip that may be on the 
bulbs, also to help maintain the bulbs in a healthy condition, and destroy 
any disease organisms, such as scab, etc. 
Distance and depth : As a rule more plant Glads in rows like vege¬ 
tables, than are planted in beds, but if you wish to plant in beds, plant 
about 6 inches apart and 4 to 5 inches deep. When planting in rows, 
you may make them in most any width, all depending on the space you 
have, from 18 to 3 6 inches is practical. 
To plant in furrows or trenches, lar«e bulbs 3 to 4 per ft., medium 
bulbs, 4 to 6 per ft., small bulbs as many as 8 to 10 per ft., plant large 
bulbs 4 to 5 inches deep and smaller bulbs more shallow. 
How to label: We use a wire stake, 2 ft. long, to the looped end is 
fastened a Tree label, painted white on one side. You can write on the 
painted side and it will not wash off in one season. These labels are 
inexpensive, so do not take any chances on faulty labeling. 
Cultivating and fertilizing: The main object of cultivation is to 
kill weeds and form a mulch that will keep the soil from getting hard 
and cracking open. Cultivate often, and kill the weeds while still 
small. If your soil is very good you will not need to fertilize very 
much, but if extra large flowers are wanted they will require added 
plant food and ample water at blooming time. 
You may mix with your soil, sheep or cattle manure, which you can 
procure dry in 100 lb. bags. Bone meal is also good. 
We use ordinary potato fertilizer to produce good strong bulbs, but 
do not try to force for large blooms. 
Cutting for blooms: As a rule cut when first bloom opens, let four 
to six leaves remain on the plant to help ripen the bulbs. 
BULBLETS 
Buying of bulblets is frequently an economical way of getting started with high 
priced novelties but these do not always germinate and no guarantee can be made that 
customers will meet with success in growing these. Germination is usually aided by 
cracking the hard shell and removing a small section of it before planting. In the case 
of difficult germination, soaking in damp cloth or peat moss for a week or two before 
planting materially improves germination. Some varieties make large bulblets and 
others produce only small ones. I aim to send out bulblets of selected size, particularly 
in novelties if at all possible. W^ith occasional varieties, the smaller size bulblets ger¬ 
minate much better and in such cases unless otherwise instructed, I endeavor to use 
my best judgment in sending what I think will give best results. 
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