TRIMMING JAPANESE FLOWERING APPLE TREES 
Two years ago I planted quite a number of young Japanese 
flowering apple trees which are growing nicely. Lately I read an 
article in a horticultural paper that young trees should be watched 
and receive proper cutting back in order to maintain a well 
balanced head, but the article gave no explanation of how to pro¬ 
ceed. Wdl you please supply the deficiency ? A. B. J. 
Nearly all trees may be improved by proper training when 
young. It is then that they form the framework that dominates 
their future shape. Young and vigorous members of the Pyrus 
family form dense heads, many of the branches crossing each 
other, becoming chafed by the constant rubbing against each 
other, thus forming wounds, attracting insect and fungus invasion. 
They are easily trimmed, preferably while dormant, but if the 
cutting in is not too severe it may be done at any time. 
First, cut out all branches that rub against another one, unless 
one of these are wanted to fill in vacant spaces and will do so. 
These are naturally those that grow inwards or across from side to 
side instead of outwards. Then take a good look at the tree and 
bear in mind that you have two objects in view. One to form a 
well balanced head and the other to let light into the interior. Retain 
the branches as low down as possible and endeavor to have them 
all so arranged that there are no open spaces. If a gap occurs see 
that if by pulling the two branches bordering the gap closer 
together, it may be closed. If so, tie them in position, but in all 
cases of tying be careful not to tie closely around the branch or 
trunk as the increasing growth might cause it to cut into the bark. 
Make loops. Sometimes there are two branches at one side of the 
opening, one of which may be pulled into the vacancy. If in pull¬ 
ing these branches together they are inclined to point in towards 
the trunk, or some one main branch placed elsewhere may do so, 
it becomes necessary to bring them out and retain them there. To 
do this, take the more slender part of a fishing cane and cut a 
length long enough to extend from the trunk to the branch when 
in position. Cut a small hole in the cane near each end in the 
same manner a boy does in the hollow bark of the willow when 
making a whistle, running a strong string through it and out at 
the end, tie it, but leave the ends long enough to tie around the 
trunk at one end and the branches at the other. Some branches 
are quite contrary and may swing sideways, but guy strings to 
neighboring branches will remedy that. The cane will hold the 
branch out from the trunk and one season’s growth generally sets 
them in position and the cane may then be removed. 
You now have thegeneral outside framework in position and have 
cut out all intercepting branches, now cut out all lateral branches, 
young and old that point inwards that would in time grow across 
the head, also all weak shoots proceeding from the trunk. This 
should lighten up the interior considerably. Cut a few inches, 
more or less, off from the tips of all branches, more from the longer 
ones. You will find dormant buds on all of the young growth, 
the upper one left after cutting generally being the one that will 
form the new top, the one below it often pushing out also, thus 
forming a branching head. It is well to cut just above a bud, 
situated on the outer side of the shoot or nearly so, or at a side 
where it is inclined to be open. If one or more branches are much 
longer than the others cut them in. These trees seldom form a 
single leader as does the maple, but has numerous ones forming a 
round headed tree. These may also be cut back a little. The 
treatment in after years generally consists of cutting out any cross 
branches and keeping the interior somewhat open. Avoid 
shearing. 
SHRUBS SUITABLE FOR A SHADY SITUATION 
Please give me a list of shrubs that will grow at the north side 
of a high wall where it is quite shaded. E. Y. 
Ribes Alpinum, the mountain currant, Berberis aquifoliutn, 
B. vulgaris and B. Tbunbergn, dogwoods, cotoneasters, thorns, 
hypericums, privets, sweet briars, snowberry and the mock 
oranges. The periwinkle, Vinca major , could be used as a ground 
cover. 
THE POLYANTHA ROSE 
I saw in California last winter boutonnieres of a dainty miniature 
pink rose. They use mainly the buds which are exquisite in 
shape and coloring. The florist said they called them “Ceciles.” 
Can you tell me where I can get plants, and are they hardy here 
in Northern Ohio ? E. E. 
In California the polyantha rose, Mile. Cecile Brunner, is often 
used for buttonhole bouquets and for spray work. No wonder 
you liked it for its buds are most exquisitely formed, resembling 
a piece of bisque. You can grow it by giving it proper winter 
protection. It does not like covering with soil, but when tied 
down and covered with dry leaves with a water-proof box over all, 
they come through nicely. Most all of the nurserymen carry 
them. They are known as Fairy Roses. 
TRANSPLANTING HEPATICAS 
The lovely hepaticas are in bloom in the woods. Can they be 
transplanted ? If so, when ? Mrs. E. M. B. 
Yes, they may easily be transplanted to your garden. Their 
chief requirements are good drainage, open shade and an addition 
of some leaf-mould to the soil. While they like plenty of moisture 
in the spring, they wdl stand drouth in the summer if they are in a 
shaded situation. Good drainage in their case means good surface 
drainage; consequently, you should plant on a slightly sloping 
bank. If you have no sloping bank, make one. Select a position 
shaded by some tall growing tree, raising the back of the bed a 
foot or even eighteen inches, holding the soil in position by small 
boulders or rock work, making the outline of the rock work irregu¬ 
lar. Plant at the back of the rocks almost any of the meadow rues; 
Thalictrum aquilegijoliutn is the finest one in flower, especially its 
variety alba. They will grow in quite shady situations. Then in 
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