7 
BENJAMIN R. CANT & SONS, 
Hints on the Cultivation of Roses 
SITUATION AND PREPARATION OF GROUND. — A place apart from other flowers 
should, if possible, be assigned to them, sheltered from high winds, but open and not surrounded by trees, 
| as closeness is very apt to cause mildew. Roses will grow in almost any soil if properly prepared and 
generously treated, but that which is specially suited is a deep yellow loam of a greasy nature. Where 
this is not to be had and the soil is light and stony, add some loam in addition to manure ; if the land 
is strong clay, it should be broken down by the addition of cinder or wood ashes and chalk. Having 
selected the site, the ground should be bastard-trenched or double dug to the depth of 18in. or 2 ft., 
keeping the subsoil below but thoroughly breaking it up and a supply of manure well decayed carefully 
mixed in with the soil. The beds should be prepared a short time previous to planting to allow the soil 
time to settle down. The best manures are decayed farmyard and stable refuse ; as an rxtra fertilizer, 
bone dust or Jin. bones are very good. It should, however, be borne in mind that newly-planted roses 
do not require too large a dressing of strong manure ; it would only be detrimental to the formation of 
young fibrous root (which has to form after transplanting), and retard rather than promote growth. 
This is particularly noticeable when putting in single specimen plants ; gardeners will sometimes dig 
out the holes which are to contain the plants, removing a lot of the soil and fill in a large proportion of 
strong manure ; consequently when the rose is planted the root goes into almost pure manure ; this will 
certainly burn all young fibrous roots as soon as they start to form. A little good manure, well mixed 
in with the soil, would be far better. Later on, the following season, when the plants have become estab¬ 
lished, stronger doses can be turned in the ground during the winter or very early spring, when the beds 
and borders are dug. Artificial fertilizers (except bone manure) should be avoided with newly-planted 
roses, but may be used with advantage to old established plants. 
PLANTING. — May be done at any time when weather is open, from middle October to the middle 
of March ; Autumn planting gives the best results. In planting Dwarf Roses place the point at which 
the plant is budded just below the surface of the soil, and plant firmly ; shorten any extra long shoots 
to prevent blowing about in the wind. Dwarf (or Bush) Roses may be placed about 20in. from plant 
to plant. Standards should be planted a little deeper than Dwarfs, and each one staked, the distance 
apart being 2Jft. Keep a mat over the roots to prevent drying, and just at time of planting sprinkle 
the roots well so they go in moist. Single plants on lawns or in borders to form large specimen trees should 
be planted in the same way, only a large hole must be prepared, some fresh soil and manure added, and the 
stem kept free from any grass or undergrowth for about 9in. to 12in. round it. Climbers should have 
plenty of root room, and a good quantity of fresh soil given, as they exhaust the land quickly standing 
on the same ground for many years, making strong growth and producing quantities of flowers. Any 
varieties required for pegging down should be selected only from the Climbers, Pillars, and extra strong 
growers. If any trees become shrivelled from exposure at the time of planting they can soon be brought 
round ; place them at full length in a trench, just cover with soil, and give them a thorough good soaking 
of water ; after three days the shrivelled appearance will have gone and they can be safely planted. This 
is only likely to occur when quantities have to be got in and the weather is very dry and windy during planting 
ROSES ARRIVING DURING A FROST. — A frost will occasionally set in unexpectedly after 
plants have been put on the rail. They will have taken no harm on this account and can be left in the 
straw bundle for a few days, but if there is no change in the weather they should be unpacked and the 
roots placed in soil in a sheltered part of the garden, covering the heads with straw litter or mats. They 
will be perfectly safe so, and can be planted the first opportunity. 
WATERING.—When planted late this is most necessary, and especially so if the spring and summer 
be dry. Sprinkle overhead frequently during dry times, and water at the root when required, Weak 
liquid manure may be given in spring and early summer to fresh planted roses, and stronger solutions to 
established plants. Hoe the soil after watering, as this will help to keep in the moisture. 
PRUNING should be done the end of March and early in April. For full directions see instructions 
under heading of each class of roses. Hybrid Perpetuals, page 12 ; Teas, page 49 ; &c., &c. Pruning 
forms an important part of rose culture. Some classes require hard cutting and others none at all. The 
hints under each section should therefore be found useful. 
PROTECTING. — Many of the Tea, Hybrid Tea, and other tender roses require protecting during 
severe weather in winter. Dwarf plants may be readily protected by drawing the soil over the centre 
or crown to the height of three or four inches—this will be found an excellent method and saves the plant 
as far as it goes ; if further covering is required, fern brakes or wheat straw placed loosely among the 
heads will be a great safeguard. Standards must have fern brakes tied in the heads. All covering should 
be removed when winter is over and a mild time sets in. 
