48 
A. E. KUNDERD, GOSHEN, INDIANA 
Planting, Culture, Storage, Etc. 
A LTHOUGH no flower gives more satisfaction than the Gladiolus, with ordinary 
care and culture in average soils, it readily responds to high culture, and the 
superior blooms produced by special attention amply repay for the additional 
care. Only those who have seen the Gladiolus at its best can realize the vast 
difference between those produced by first-class methods, and those less carefully 
grown. We strongly advise our friends to employ only the best cultural methods 
possible under their conditions. See note on page 49. 
PLANTING AND CULTURE. It is best, if possible, to use new location, or 
soil, each season, so that bulbs are not planted oftener than every third year in 
the same soil. It is advantageous to spade in a good covering of manures late in 
the fall preceding the plantings to follow. The richer the soil and better the 
culture, the better the results will be. In spring, when the soil is in proper 
condition, spade deep and pulverize thoroughly. At planting time, only well 
rotted manure or high grade potato fertilizers should be used. For long blooming 
seasons, plant at intervals of about two weeks from first garden making time, 
until the middle or latter part of June. Bulbs can be planted four inches deep and 
over in mellow soils, and four to eight inches apart in the row. The deeper 
planting will help to keep the plants from falling over at blooming time. Liquid 
fertilizer or prepared sheep manure can be applied to the soil near the rows once 
every week or ten days, care being exercised not to make applications too strong. 
Frequent thorough waterings of the soil in the beds at evenings is a wonderful 
stimulant, and gives the blooms much greater sun resistance and lasting qualities. 
Keep the soil well worked and frequently, especially early the next forenoon after 
being watered the previous evening. Always keep a soil crust from forming in the 
rows among the plants. After blooming spikes begin to show cultivate only 
about two inches deep. Do not work soil when wet. Scotch soot applied to the 
soil when plants are half grown, intensifies deep shades. Weak lime water 
applied to soil shortly before blooms begin to open is said to clarify the more 
delicate shades. Prepared ground bone, or other high grade fertilizers, can be 
sprinkled over the soil near the plants, between rows, and raked in to good 
purpose. Nitrate of Soda (about a tablespoonful to two gallons of water for each 
dozen plants) applied to the soil near the rows once every week or ten days 
after buds begin to show color, is very beneficial. Or: Sprinkle the pulverized 
nitrate of soda over the soil, rake in and water. (See also notes on page 49). 
IMPORTANT. Varieties vary in different soils and seasons. Some do their 
best only in alternate years. To grow magnificent gladiolus, have soil fertile and 
mellow. Cultivate thoroughly and often. Water abundantly, and never leave a 
crust form over the soil between rows or near the plants. 
STAKING. Slender stakes of wood, or bamboo painted a light green make 
good supports for the spikes at blooming time. 
BLOOMING. For best results, cut the spikes when the first flowers open, and 
bloom in the house. Each morning remove wilted blossoms, cut off a little of 
the stems, cutting them with a long slope (not square across), rinse and give fresh 
water. Placing them in a cool cellar over night greatly refreshes and improves 
them. 
Many beautiful designs can be made, either with tips of spikes or single 
blossoms, in rounds, ovals, fans, etc., in plates, pans, vases or shallow dishes and 
other receptacles. 
If good bulbs are desired for the following year, four to five strong leaves 
should be left on the plants when cutting the spikes. 
STORING. Bulbs should be dug before the plants are too ripe. In the fall, 
before hard frosts, dig the bulbs and cut off the tops. Dry well in the air and 
sunshine, cure thoroughly in-doors for a few weeks, then store in a cool, dry 
cellar. A covering of sand while in storage (after bulbs are well cured), is a 
protection against frost or dampness. Keep as near 40 degrees as possible. See 
also notes on page 49. 
