BENJAMIN R. CANT & SONS, 
5 
Hints on the Cultivation of Roses. 
SITUATION AND PREPARATION OF GROUN D.— A place apart from other flowers 
should, if possible, be assigned to them, sheltered from high winds, but open and not surrounded 
by trees, as closeness is very apt to cause mildew. Roses will grow in almost any soil if properly 
prepared and generously treated, but that which is specially suited is a rich loam of a greasy 
nature. Where this is not to be had and the soil is light and stony, add some loam in addition to 
manure ; if the land is strdng clay, it should be broken down by the addition of cinder or wood 
ashes and chalk. Having selected the site, the ground should be bastard-trenched or double 
dug to the depth of 18in. or 2ft., keeping the subsoil below' but thoroughly breaking it up and 
a supply of manure well decayed carplfilly mixed in. with the soil. The beds should be prepared 
a short time previous to planting to allow' the soil time to settle down. The best manures are 
decayed farmyard and stable refuse ; as an extra fertilizer bone dust or Jin. bones are very good.. 
It should, however, be borne in mind that newly-planted roses do not require too large a dressing 
of strong manure ; it would only be detrimental to the formation of young fibrous root, (which 
has to form after transplanting), and retard rather than promote growth. This is particularly 
noticeable w'hen putting in single specimen plants ; gardeners will sometimes dig out the holes 
which are to contain the plants, removing a lot of the soil and fill in a large proportion of strong 
manure ; consequently when the rose is planted the root goes into almost pure manure ; this will 
certainly burn all young fibrous roots as soon as they start to form. A little good manure, well 
mixed in with the soil, would be far better. Later on, the following season, when the plants 
have become established, stronger doses can be turned in the ground during the winter or very 
early spring, when the beds and borders are dug. Artificial fertilizers (except bone manure), 
should be avoided with newly-planted roses, but may be used with advantage to old established 
plants. 
PLANTING. —May be done at any time when weather is open, from middle October to 
the middle of March ; Autumn planting gives the best results. In planting Dwarf Roses place 
the point at which the plant is budded just below the surface of the soil, and plant firmly ; shorten 
any extra long shoots to prevent blowing about in the wind. Dwarf (or Bush) Roses may be 
placed about 20in. from plant to plant. Standards should be planted a little deeper than Dwarfs, 
and each one staked, the distance apart being 2Jft. Keep a mat over the roots to prevent drying’ 
and just at time of planting sprinkle the roots well so they go in moist. Single plants on lawns 
or in borders to form large specimen trees should be planted in the same way, only a large hole, 
must be prepared, some fresh soil and manure added, and the stem kept free from any grass or 
undergrowth for about 9in. or 12in. round it. Climbers should have plenty of root room, and a, 
good quantity of fresh soil given, as they exhaust the land quickly standing on the same ground 
for many years, making strong growth and producing quantities of flowers. Any varieties required 
for pegging down should be selected only from the Climbers, Pillars, and extra strong growers. 
If any trees become shrivelled from exposure at the time of planting, they can soon be brought 
round ; place them at full length in a trench, just cover with soil, and give them a thorough, 
good soaking of water ; after three days the shrivelled appeafance will have gone and they 
can be safely planted. This is only likely to occur when quantities have to be got in and the 
weather is very dry and windy during planting. 
ROSES ARRIVING DURING A FROST. — Afrost will occasionally set in unexpectedly 
after plants have been put on the rail. They will have taken no harm on this account and cam 
be left in the straw bundle for a few days, but if there is no change in the weather, they should 
be unpacked and the roots placed in soil in a sheltered part of the garden, covering the heads, 
with straw litter or mats. They will be perfectly safe so, and can be planted the first opportunity. 
WATERING. — When planted late this is most necessary, and especially so if the spring 
and summer be dry. Sprinkle overhead frequently during dry times, and whter at the root 
when required. Hoe the soil after watering, as this will help to keep in the moisture. 
PRUNING should be done the end of March and early in April. For full directions see 
instructions under heading of each class of roses. -Hybrid PerpetualS, page' 9 ; Teas, page 34 ; 
&c., &c. Pruning forms an important part of rose culture. Some classes require hard cutting 
and others none at all. The hints under each section should therefore be found useful. 
PROTECTING.— Many of the Tea, Hybrid Tea, and other tender roses require protecting 
during severe weather in winter. Dwarf plants may be readily protected by drawing the soil 
over the centre or crown to the height of three or four inches — this will be found an excellent 
method and saves the plant as far as it goes ; if further covering is required, fern brakes or wheat 
straw placed loosely among the heads will be a great safeguard. Standards must have fern 
brakes, tied in the heads. All covering should be removed when winter is over and a mild time; 
sets in. 
