39 
A. E. K UNDER!), GOSHEN , IND. 
Planting, Culture, Storage, Etc. 
A LTHOUGH no flower gives more satisfaction than the Gladiolus, with ordinary care and 
culture in average soils, it readily responds to high culture, and the superior blooms 
produced by special attention amply repay for the additional care. Only those who have 
seen the Gladiolus at its best can realize the vast difference between those produced by 
first-class methods, and those less carefully grown. We strongly advise our friends to 
employ only the best cultural methods possible under their conditions. See note on page 40. 
PLANTING AND CULTURE. It is best, if possible, to use new location, or soil, each 
season, so that bulbs are not planted oftener than every third year in the same soil. It is 
advantageous to spade in a good covering of manure late in the fall preceding the plantings 
to follow. The richer the soil and better the culture, the better the results will be. In the 
spring, when the soil is in proper condition, spade deep and pulverize thoroughly. At plant¬ 
ing time, only well rotted manures or high grade potato fertilizers should be used. For long 
blooming season, plant at intervals of about two weeks from first garden making time, until 
the middle or latter part of June. Bulbs can be planted four inches deep and over in mellow 
soils, and four to eight inches apart in the row. The deeper planting will help to keep the 
plants from falling over at blooming time. Liquid fertilizer or prepared sheep manure can 
be applied to the soil near the rows once every week or ten days, care being exercised not 
to make the applications too strong. Frequent thorough waterings of the soil in the beds 
at evenings is a wonderful stimulant, and gives the blooms much greater sun resistance 
and lasting qualities. Keep the soil well worked and frequently, especially early the next 
forenoon after being watered the previous evening. Always keep a soil crust from forming 
in the rows among the plants. After blooming spikes begin to show, cultivate only about 
two inches deep. Do not work soil when wet. Scotch soot applied to the soil when plants 
are half grown, intensifies deep shades. Weak lime water applied to soil shortly before 
blooms begin to open is said to clarify the more delicate shades. Prepared ground bone, 
or other high grade fertilizers, can be sprinkled over the soil, near the plants, between rows, 
and raked in to good purpose. Nitrate of soda (about a tablespoonful to 2 gals, of water 
for each dozen plants) applied to the soil near the rows once every week or ten days after 
buds begin to show color, is very beneficial. Or: Sprinkle the pulverized nitrate of soda 
over the soil, rake in, and water. (See also notes on page 40.) 
Important. Varieties vary in different soils and seasons. Some do their best only in 
alternate years. To grow magnificent gladiolus, have soil fertile and mellow. Cultivate 
thoroughly and often. Water abundantly, and never leave a soil crust form over the soil 
between rows or near the plants. 
STAKING. Slender stakes of wood, or bamboo, painted a light green make good 
supports for the spikes at blooming time. 
BLOOMING. For best results, cut the spikes when the first flowers open, and bloom 
in the house. Each morning remove wilted blossoms, cut off a little of the stems, cutting 
them with a long slope (not square across), rinse, and give fresh water. Placing them in 
a cool cellar over night greatly refreshes and improves them. 
Many beautiful designs can be made, either with tips of spikes or single blossoms, in 
rounds, ovals, fans etc., in plates, pans, vases or shallow dishes and other receptacles. 
If good bulbs are desired for the following year, four to five strong leaves should be 
left on the plants when cutting the spikes. 
STORING. Bulbs should be dug before the plants are too ripe. In the fall, before 
hard frosts, dig the bulbs and cut off the tops. Dry well in the air and sunshine, cure 
thoroughly in-doors for a few weeks, then store in a cool, dry, cellar. A covering of dry 
sand while in storage (after bulbs are well cured), is a protection against frost or damp¬ 
ness. Keep as near 40 degrees as possible. lEiT'See also notes on page 40. 
