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WALSH’S HANDBOOK OF ROSES 
BUSHES HILLED UP FOR WINTER PROTECTION 
PRACTICAL POINTS FOR ROSE-GROWERS 
The professional gardener needs no directions. 1 his is intended to assist those who wish to grow Roses, 
but not having sufficient practical knowledge to insure themselves against making mistakes in the culture 
they give their plants. 
The best position for Roses is a southeast 
to southwest exposure. Roses require sun¬ 
shine. They will not thrive in the shade, 
neither will they thrive where the roots of 
trees come in contact with the Rose-bed and 
rob the soil of plant-food. Roses like to be 
sheltered from the north and northwest winds. 
A shelter may be afforded by planting screens 
of Rambler Roses; these are effective and 
ornamental. Or the Rose-bed may be made 
in the shelter of buildings, or of evergreens 
you may have. 
The Soil. Roses will grow in any ordinary 
garden soil that is well enriched with stable 
manure. Cow manure is preferable where the 
soil is not too heavy. If of a clay composition, 
horse manure should be used. Roses will not 
thrive in sand, neither will they grow in ground 
where water has not ready drainage. Be sure 
you have this. If the place selected is sandy, 
remove this soil to the depth of a couple of 
feet, and replace with good, turfy loam from 
some old pasture or the woods. Add one- 
fourth the bulk of well-decomposed manure, 
and thoroughly mix the manure with the soil. 
A layer of grass or leaves on the bottom is 
beneficial, as it provides drainage. Should your 
soil be clay, it is better to dig this out 2 feet 
deep and fill in with clay, loam and a little manure, on top of half a foot of broken bricks or stones. 
Hybrid Perpetual Roses require a stronger or heavier soil for their successful growth than Hybrid 
Teas; by a light soil is meant soil of a sandy texture but well and liberally enriched with manure and vege¬ 
table matter, or humus. Evaporation will be greater in light soil than in heavier soil, hence you must be 
careful to water plants growing in it. Rambler Roses will grow in any ordinary soil well enriched with 
manure. If possible, dig out the bed to a depth of 2 feet and thoroughly incorporate the manure in the soil. 
Most failures of Roses can be traced to lack of nourishment in the soil, and to lack of tilth and 
humus. Put a Rose in a little hole and you may expect it to die; but plant it with care in properly pre¬ 
pared soil, and it will thrive and give satisfaction and pleasure. 
To sum up the needs: Have plenty of plant-food in the shape 
of manure and fertilizer in the bed, see that the soil is light and 
loose and full of humus and be particular to get good drainage. 
If you do this you cannot fail to succeed in a way that will 
surprise and gratify you. 
The Planting of Roses may be done in October and early 
November, before the ground freezes. Dig good, large, deep 
holes. Spread out the roots evenly over the bottom; shake the 
plant lightly as you fill, so the soil will set evenly about the 
roots. When the hole is nearly filled pack the soil firmly. This 
is to close up all air-spaces. Budded Roses should be planted 
2 inches below the collar, or bud; that is below where the Rose 
is united to the stock. By planting 2 or 3 inches below the sur¬ 
face, new roots are produced from the base of the Rose. In the 
accompanying illustration, B shows the collar of plant, which 
should be 2 inches below the surface; A shows the plant finally 
set. Few varieties thrive at all on their own roots, so the major¬ 
ity of Rose plants are budded. Budded plants make more 
growth in one year than own-root plants in two or three years. 
When planting is finished, a good soaking of water would be 
beneficial, if the ground is dry. The distance apart for planting 
Roses may be varied according to the space at command, or 
the size of the bed. It may be 18 by 24 inches, or 24 by 24. 
Some varieties require more space than others. For winter 
SHOWING HOW DEEP PLANTS SHOULD BE SET 
29 
