<1 
* 
CULTURAL DIRECTIONS. 
Preparation of the Ground. Roses will grow in any fertile ground, but are much 
improved in bloom, fragrance, and beauty by rich soil, liberal manuring, and good cultiva¬ 
tion. The ground should be subsoiled and well spaded to the depth of a foot or more, and 
enriched by digging in a good coat of cow manure or any fertilizing material that may be 
convenient. Renew old beds by decayed sods taken from old pasture land. 
Planting. When the ground is thoroughly prepared—fine and in nice condition— 
put in the plant slightly deeper than it was before, spread the roots out evenly in their 
natural position, and cover them with fine earth, taking care to draw it closely around the 
stem, and pack firmly down with the hand. It is very important that the earth be tightly 
pressed down on the roots. Budded Roses should be planted three inches below the bud. 
Always select an open, sunny place, exposed to full light and air. Roses appear to best 
advantage when planted in beds or masses. 
Watering. If the ground is dry when planted, water thoroughly after planting, so 
as to soak the earth down below the roots, and, if hot or windy, it may be well to shade for 
a few days. After this not much water is required, unless the weather is unusually dry. 
Pruning. Old and decayed branches and at least half the previous season’s wood 
should be cut away early each spring, and a little cutting back after the first blooming will 
insure more late flowers. Climbing and Pillar Roses should not be cut back; but the tips 
of the shoots only should be taken off, and any weak or unripe shoots cut out altogether. 
FALL AND WINTER TREATMENT. 
Pall Treatment. In the fall the Rose beds should have a good dressing of stable 
manure or any fertilizer convenient. The winter rains will carry the strength to the roots, 
and the remaining matter makes a nice mulch, which in many places is all the protection 
necessary. Where the winters are not very severe tender Roses may be covered with clean 
rye straw, forest leaves, or evergreen branches, not too thickly, but so as to permit con¬ 
siderable circulation of air and not to retain water; nothing should be used that will 
ferment, heat, or rot. The object of covering is to break the force of sudden and violent 
changes, particularly in March, when the plants should be protected from the sun, rather 
than cold , the sudden thawing of the frozen wood doing the damage. 
47 
^AfiC.PH/iA, 
This section includes the Hybrid Perpetuals, Mosses, and Climbers, and while they are 
not as constant bloomers as the Teas, Bourbons, Noisettes, and Chinas, they make a gor¬ 
geous display of deep, rich colors in May and June, far excelling the ever-blooming class in 
size of flower and brilliancy of color. Most Hybrid Perpetuals give a second crop of bloom 
in September and October, and in many cases finer flowers than those produced in June. 
HARDY ROSES. 
