Walsh’s H andbook; of R^pses 
CULTURAL DIRECTIONS, continued 
is meant soil of a more sandy texture but well and liberally enriched with manure as 
stated before. These should receive careful attention as regards watering, as the evap¬ 
oration will be greater in light soil than in heavier soil. 
Rambler Roses will grow in ordinary soil well enriched with manure, digging to a 
depth of at least 2 feet and thoroughly incorporating the manure in the soil. 
It is probably the fact that a great number of the cases of failure on the part of 
amateurs with the Rose might be traced to lack of 
nourishment in the soil. Where there is this lack 
the plants will look poorly, the foliage will wither, 
apparently, and the blooms, if indeed there be 
any, will be small, and eventually the plant will 
die. Put a Rose in a hole and you may expect it 
to die ; but plant it with care in properly prepared 
soil, and it will thrive and give satisfaction and 
pleasure. To repeat once more, have plenty of 
manure in your bed, and be particular to get good 
drainage and you have made a start that cannot 
fail to ensure you a degree of success later on 
that will surprise and gratify. 
The planting of Roses may be done in Octo- 
Showing how deep plants should be set 
Briar 
Sucker 
ber and early November, before the ground freezes. A maxim that you will do well to 
remember, is, “ Begin well, make the foundation safe, and you may hope to prosper.” 
When planting Roses, dig a good large hole, and deep. Spread out the roots evenly over 
the bottom ; take hold of the plant when filling in the soil and shake lightly so the soil 
will set evenly about the roots. When the hole is nearly filled tread the soil firmly with 
the foot. This is to exclude all air spaces that may possibly be in the soil unless planted 
firmly. When planting budded Roses, plant 2 inches below the collar or bud; that is, 
where the Rose is united to the stock. This is beneficial, as by planting 2 or 3 inches 
below the surface, new roots are produced from the base of the Rose, thereby giving it 
increased vigor and strength. On the accompanying illustration, B shows the collar of 
plant, which should be 2 inches below surface ; A shows plant finally set. 
Budded plants produce superior growth to plants grown on own roots. There are 
so few varieties that thrive well on own roots ; the majority of Rose plants are budded. 
Budded plants make more growth in one year than own-root plants in two or three years. 
The only additional care required is to remove any shoots commonly called “ suckers,” 
which spring up from the base of the plant. A person soon becomes familiar with the so- 
called briar sucker, as it has seven to nine petioles to the leaf, see illustration herewith, 
whereas the Rose, except in few instances, has but five. There is also a distinction in the 
color of the briar of the Rose proper, easily detected when a person becomes familiar with 
the plants. 
When planting is finished, a good soaking of water would be beneficial, should the 
ground be dry. The distance for planting Roses may be varied according to the space 
at command or the size of the bed contemplated. The distance apart may be 18 by 24 
inches, or 24 by 24, depending on the variety, as some require a little more space than 
others. For winter protection draw the earth up around the base of the plant to a depth 
of 8 inches, similar to hilling up potatoes. See illustration on page 21, showing Roses 
before and after hilling up. This will shed the water and keep the base of the plant in 
good condition during the winter. It is not the very low temperature so much as the 
moisture which causes greatest injury to the plant. After the earth has been drawn up 
as above, spread over the surface 4 or 5 inches of coarse litter or coarse manure. This will 
answer two purposes : it serves as protection, as well as fertilizer. Where evergreen 
branches can readily be obtained, it is an excellent plan to place these over and around 
the Rose bushes. This will furnish shade from the sun in February and early March, 
which sometimes proves injurious, exciting the sap into premature action. This same 
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