most desirable of all the Fall Bearing Strawberries. 
19 
Raspberries 
Among berry fruits, we consider the raspberry 
second only in importance to the strawberry. in 
many sections it holds first place. This is due to 
the fact that raspberries can be grown with less 
skill and they do not require quite as much hand 
labor; most of the work of cultivation can be donq 
by the horse. Our county (Oswego) is becoming 
a great center for the cultivation of red. purple and 
black raspberries as well as strawberries. These are 
shipped to all the nearby cities and 
towns and also to New York, Boston, 
Pittsburgh and other places. The price 
received for the fruit is fully double what 
it was ten years ago. The demand for 
raspberry plants is enormous, second only 
in volume to strawberry plants. We han¬ 
dle them by the millions. 
Cultural Directions 
tips 
Cuthbert 
Red raspberry plants are known as 
suckers and transplants. Transplants are 
suckers grown in rows one year before 
planting, whereas suckers are merely 
plants taken up between the fruiting 
rows. Black and Purple raspberry plants 
are known as tips and transplants. Tips 
are the plants produced by bending the 
ends of the wanes to the ground and 
covering with earth early in the fall. 
These ends will root and make fine 
fibrous rooted plants before winter 
and are known as "tips.” The 
are set closely in rows and 
grown one year and are 
then known as "tran>v 
plants” or 1 year olds. Un¬ 
less otherwise mentioned, 
raspberry plants are either 
tips or suckers. 
There are t wV> general 
plans of growing rasp¬ 
berries, in hills and con¬ 
tinuous rows. When planted in hills, the 
canes grow large and are liable to be 
twisted off by heavy winds, unless tied to 
stakes. For hill culture, the plants should 
be set from 5 to 8 feet apart each way. 
depending upon the variety. When grown 
in continuous rows, raspberry plants should 
be set from 1 to 3 feet apart in the row 
and the rows from 5 to 10 feet apart, 
depending on the growth of the variety. 
Red varieties can be set closer than blacks 
and blacks can be set closer than purple varieties. 
Tf raspberry plants are set thickly in the row, say 
1 foot apart, they will produce more canes to a given distance 
of row and the canes will not grow so large, but will be 
smaller and more withy. These small withy canes are not 
near so liable to twist and break off by heavy winds as the 
large canes that grow in the hills when the plants are set 
3 feet or more apart. 
The best kind of soil for raspberries is a dry sand or gravel, 
or any soil that can be made dry by ditching. Strawberries 
will sometimes do exceedingly well on low wet soils but rasp- 
berries rarely ever will. Raspberries will produce large crops 
on soil too poor to produce even small crops of strawberries. 
We think an ordinary soil, naturally well drained, where the water never stands, will pro¬ 
duce better crops of raspberries, if it is well fed up by the use of commercial fertilizers, 
than a naturally rich soil, a little inclined to be wet and on which no commercial fertilizers 
are used. 
When setting raspberry plants, plow furrows quite deep and set the plants on the loose 
dirt that rattles back into the furrow, at the proper distance apart that you want them. 
If set in hills, the piece can be furrowed out both ways and the plants set at the inter¬ 
section of the marks. I would set the plants just deep enough so that the little germ, which 
Is to grow into the new cane, will be just about an inch below the surface of the ground. 
When the young canes get about one foot or la inches nigh, the t^ips sjiould be nipped 
