34 
HOUSE & GARDEN 
GARDENING WITH STONES 
An Interesting Method Which Explains 
the Flower in the Crannied Wa 11 
AMY I. HEARTFIELD 
The ideal spot for a wall garden is a section of wall dry laid with 
sufficient space between the stones to allow for a little bed of loam- 
in which the plants can take a grip 
N EARLY every garden 
lover longs for a rock 
garden. But as few have 
the necessary rock ledge at 
their command, and many 
have happily grown beyond 
the stage where a pile of 
stones in one corner of the 
garden will satisfy them, 
that longing in most cases is 
unfulfilled. In the planted 
wall we have the happy solu¬ 
tion to this vexing problem. 
The wall itself has many 
points in its favor: it is use¬ 
ful, economical, practical 
and altogether beautiful. 
A suitable situation for a 
wall garden is not hard to 
find, as any place where a 
low embankment or retain¬ 
ing wall is needed will be 
just the spot for it. Once 
the principle of construc¬ 
tion is understood, the work 
is not difficult. There is no 
need for a mason, as no mor¬ 
tar is used. With an ordi¬ 
nary laborer to lift the 
stones into place for her, a 
woman could build it her¬ 
self. Any collection of 
rough field stones, such as 
are used in a dry wall, will 
do for this purpose. Up to 
2' or 3' long, the larger the 
stones the better, as they 
will resist more strongly the 
action of alternate thawing and freezing. 
The most important consideration in lay¬ 
ing the stones is to give them a backward 
and downward slant. When the bank which 
is to be walled has been cut back, lay one 
or two large stones, fitting them nicely to¬ 
gether. Have a rich soil prepared of loam 
and leaf mold, or well-rotted manure if 
leaf mold is not available, and cover the 
stone with it about y 2 " thick, packing it 
well so that it will not fall out. 
Arranging Rocks and Plants 
Now take up your plant and spread out 
the roots on the soil, pressing them in light¬ 
ly. Cover with more soil. Fit a good-sized 
stone on this, taking care that it is firmly 
placed and steady. In this way proceed, 
filling each crevice with soil and plants, 
until one end of the wall is nearly built. If 
the stones selected do not reach back to the 
vooTs o9 ^ ploftt” CQrcfviL bfcfori 
ploci’n^ the. stone. ' 
In constructing the wall the first rule is 
to allow for sufficient space between stones 
cut face of the bank, fill in with small stone 
or soil. In laying each stone be sure to re¬ 
member the backward and downward slope. 
This gives the plants room to stretch out 
toward the light and helps to catch and re¬ 
tain rain water in the crevices between the 
stones, two important considerations. 
I f any water supply is to be provided, 
it must be laid with the wall. All that is 
needed is a number of lengths of old farm 
tile. An elbow or a slightly curved tile 
should be used for the opening or top piece. 
Allow one end to come flush with the 
ground at the completed end of the wall 
and incline the other to permit water to 
flow through. Fit the next tile loosely so 
that some water will flow out while the rest 
runs on to other tiles, each one of which 
must be placed a little lower than the one 
preceding it. Pieces of tin or thin stones 
laid on the loose joints will prevent the soil 
getting into the tiles and stopping the flow 
of water. The line of tiles should lie back 
of the stones, between them and the bank. 
The process of laying stone and pipe and 
of planting thus continues jointly until the 
wall is finished, the slope of the pipe being 
regulated, of course, by the length of the 
wall when finished, the tile is fully concealed. 
It can readily be seen that this simple 
method of irrigation will not water the en¬ 
tire wall, as the part above the tiles will 
not be affected. Those plants which delight 
in a dry situation should be used for sucb 
parts. Though not adequate, 
this system is very beneficial, 
especially in a dry season. 
No water is wasted, as it all 
seeps through the rocks to 
the roots of the plants. If 
the same amount of water 
were poured on the plants 
from the front of the wall, 
half of it would run down 
the face of the stone carry¬ 
ing with it some of the 
most precious soil. 
The Soil and Planting 
As there is little space be¬ 
tween the rocks, the plants 
cannot get much soil. For 
this reason what soil there is 
must be rich, and well com¬ 
pacted, so that it will not 
wash away. The size of the 
interspaces will vary with 
the shape of the stones. A 
considerable variety of these 
can be used, and stones used 
to fill the spaces between the 
large stones which cannot be 
made to fit closely. Often 
the insertion of a small stone 
at the front of the wall will 
help to keep firm a rich 
pocket of earth that extends 
far back into the wall. 
It is surprising what a 
variety of beautiful plants 
will thrive in such a situa¬ 
tion. They begin to flower 
in early April, before the leaves are on the 
trees. Among the earliest and best is the 
beautiful Gold Dust ( Alyssum saxatile ) 
which rejoices in spreading its bright yel¬ 
low masses over the stones. Nothing can 
be lovelier with it than the purple false rock 
cress ( Aubretia deltoidea ) which flowers at 
the same time. The little jolmny-jump-ups, 
if planted in numbers, will make the wall 
gay from early April until May. With the 
alyssum comes the moss pink ( Phlox subu- 
lata), in white, lavender and magenta. The 
last color makes a beautiful effect if kept 
away from yellows and pinks. The deli¬ 
cate Iceland and Alpine poppies {Papaver 
nudicaule and Alpina) , in orange, yellow 
and white, make an attractive bit of color 
at the same time. Under moderately moist 
conditions the native violets will do well in 
a wall, the yellow as well as the purple. 
The second process is to provide for drain¬ 
age and to build back from the plumb line ■ 
