50 
HOUSE & GARDEN 
The “ single-unit ” house, measuring about 25' ira length and set on This is the “ two-unit ,” made 61 / putting two of the singles to- 
a concrete foundation, is small but capable of producing real re- gether. Both of these photographs illustrate houses that are 
suits. Its length can readily be extended if desired manufactured and shipped ready to put up 
YOUR ALL-YEAR GARDEN 
T HE preparation of new beds 
for spring planting is one of 
the most important of the fall 
garden opportunities which are apt 
to he overlooked. Beds and borders 
prepared now will disintegrate and 
mellow through the winter and 
spring, and the manure incorporated 
with the soil will rot and become 
“available” so that the plants when 
set out can make immediate use of 
it. The soil will settle and pack 
down to some extent through the 
winter, and not be too open and 
loose to give the best results, as it 
often is when prepared just before 
planting time arrives. 
In good, rich soil, naturally well 
drained, the digging in of manure 
and trenching or spading the soil 
to double the depth it is ordinarily 
dug, may be all that is required. In 
doing this, start at one side of the 
plot or at one end of the bed, and 
throw out a ditch or furrow of soil 
on the surface, leaving a narrow 
trench 6" or 8" deep ; next, spade up 
the soil at the bottom of this, turn¬ 
ing it over and breaking it, but leav¬ 
ing it where it is; then throw the 
top soil from the next line or fur¬ 
row on top of this and turn over 
and break up the subsoil of this fur¬ 
row in the same way as the other. 
Proceed in this manner to the other 
side or end of the plot or bed you 
are digging; make a thorough job. 
Where the drainage is inadequate 
or the soil poor, it will pay to take 
the time and trouble to prepare the 
bed thoroughly by digging it to the 
depth of 18" or so, throwing such 
good soil as there may be to one 
side, to be put back later. Fork or 
spade up the subsoil, and put in 
some cobbles or rough, stony soil 
for drainage. Cover this with a 
layer of sod or strawy manure, fill¬ 
ing up with good garden soil or a 
compost of soil, manure and 
“humus.” The bed may be rounded 
up several inches above the surface, 
as it will settle somewhat during the 
stormy winter months. 
Are the Frames in Good 
Condition ? 
Before the ground freezes you 
should go over all of the frames, 
put in new posts or planks where 
they may be needed, and generally 
true them up. Sash cannot fit tight¬ 
ly on frames that are out of shape 
and going to pieces. It will be but 
a few minutes’ work per sash to dig 
down on the side of the frame for 
6" or so, tack a strip of heavy tar 
or roofing paper against the wood 
on the outside, and then bank the 
frame nearly to the top with soil 
The Value of Fall Work for Spring 
Results — Greenhouses, Frames, and 
Storing the Vegetable Crop for Winter 
F . F . ROCKWEL L 
Inside, the possibilities of a good greenhouse are almost unlim¬ 
ited. Here are thriving, blossom-covered plants of chrysan¬ 
themum, primulas and begonias, to mention a few 
Azaleas, primulas, schizanthus, spirea, jonquils, callas, ivy — 
and underneath the benches is space in which to bring along 
some of the spring flowering potted bulbs 
or coal ashes. Frames that will be 
wanted for early spring use should 
be covered with sash or shutters. 
By throwing into those that will be 
wanted earliest a compost of 
manure and leaves, you will kill 
two birds with one stone: keeping 
the frost out of the frames, and 
having for use in them and for 
early garden work manure which 
will be in the finest condition to 
give quick results. By thus keep¬ 
ing the frames clear of frost, and 
by using double glass sash, you can 
begin operations two or three weeks 
earlier than you have been in the 
habit of doing, and get results. 
Still Time for a Greenhouse 
Until recently the construction of 
the small greenhouse was a task for 
which a period of several weeks 
must be allowed. But now, when it 
is possible to get them in ready-built 
standard sections, which can be put 
up in a day or two, you can have 
your greenhouse for this winter 
even if it is late in the season. The 
important point is to get the foun¬ 
dation in before the ground freezes 
hard. As you will know the exact 
measurements of the house you have 
ordered, this work can be done while 
the house is on the way. The manu¬ 
facturer supplies working plans as 
soon as your order is placed, and 
these should always be used, even 
for the foundation. 
It is a simple matter to make a 
concrete foundation for the house. 
In most soils the “form” for the 
concrete below ground can be made 
by merely digging the soil out care¬ 
fully and getting a straight sided 
narrow trench to a depth of 2' or 
3', according to the frost line in 
your locality. Smooth 2" planks, 
greased on the inside and firmly 
braced so that they will not spread 
when the concrete is put in, will 
make the part of the “form” which 
comes above ground. The wall 
above ground should be 6" or so 
thick, and level on top. 
Handling the Celery Crop 
The part of your celery crop in¬ 
tended for late winter must be taken 
care of now before hard freezing 
weather. While the plants for im¬ 
mediate use are usually blanched by 
various means in the rows where 
they grew, those designed for keep¬ 
ing should have been hilled up only 
enough to keep them upright, the 
stalks for the most part being green. 
Part of the late crop—enough to 
last until late in December or even 
up to Christmas, where the climate 
(Continued on page 66 ) 
