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HOUSE & GARDEN 
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Jhe'Wifder^uhic^ \ 
NUMBER OF I 
—now ready—presents the Winter mode at its height. In j 
the late autumn, style experiment becomes style certainty. j 
Furs, hats, costumes ta\e on definite lines. You must | 
know — now—what Fashion finally stamps with her favor. | 
The Winter Fashions Number of Vogue pictures and de- | 
scribes fully everything that bears the cachet of smartness | 
for Autumn and Winter. In the next | 
month you will spend hundreds of | 
dollars for your winter furs, wraps, | 
frocks and accessories. Any reader 1 
of Vogue will tell you that: | 
$2 Invested in Vo^ue | 
A tiny fraction of your loss on = 
a single ill-chosen hat or gown § 
Will Save You $200 I 
The gown you buy and never wear is j 
the really expensive gown. Gloves, j 
boots, hats, that miss being exactly | 
what you want are the ones that cost | 
more than you can afford. | 
Consider, then, that by the simple act | 
of mailing the coupon below, and at | 
your convenience forwarding $2 (a 1 
tiny fraction of your loss on a single | 
ill-chosen hat or gown), not only may | 
you have before you, at this important | 
season, Vogue’s great special Fashion | 
Numbers, but all through the Winter j 
and the coming Spring the numbers j 
that follow them. § 
Here Are Your 12 Numbers: | 
Winter Fashions Number Nov. 1 | 
Showing the mode in its Winter culmination — E 
charming models smart couturiers evolve for E 
their private clientele. E 
^Special Offer 
T HE Winter Fashions 
Number of Vogue is now 
ready. If you mail thecoupon 
and enclose $2 now, we will 
start your subscription to 
Vogue with theWinter Fash¬ 
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(OR) If it is more convenient 
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We will start your subscrip¬ 
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Vanity Number Nov. 15 
Those graceful little 
touches that make the 
smart woman smart, 
where to get them and 
how to use them. 
Christmas Gifts Dec. 1 
Vogue’s solution of the 
Christmas gift problem. 
A new idea. 
Holiday Number Dec. 15 
More gifts and practical 
ideas for holiday enter¬ 
taining. 
Lingerie Number Jan. I 
Fine linen for personal 
use and for the house¬ 
hold. 
Motor and Southern Jan. 15 
New fashions in motor 
cars and the new clothes 
for the southern season. 
Forecast of 
Spring Fashions Feb. 1 
Earliest authentic news 
of Spring styles fully 
illustrated. 
Spring Millinery Feb. 15 
Hats, bonnets and 
toques from the famous 
milliners. 
Spring Patterns Mar. 1 
Working models for 
your Spring and Summer 
wardrobe. 
Paris 
Spring Openings Mar. 15 
The Spring exhibitions 
of the leading couturiers 
of Paris. 
Spring Fashions Apr. 1 
The last word on Spring 
gowns, blouses and ac¬ 
cessories. 
Smart Fashions for 
Limited Incomes Apr. 15 
First aid to the fashion¬ 
able woman of not un¬ 
limited means. 
* Brides and Summer Homes 
(See Special Offer) May 1 
A journey “thro* pleas¬ 
ures and palaces.” News 
for the bride. 
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What of Your Trees’ Health ? 
(Continued from page 60) 
wood, not of the bark, for the latter 
will do quite wonderful things in the 
way of closing in over the wound. A 
sort of skin-grafting can be per¬ 
formed by laying live young shoots of 
wood over the wound, parallel to 
each other, and grafting them into 
the bark at each end; but this is work 
for the tree doctor who thoroughly 
knows his profession. 
Splits in the trunk or limbs are 
caused by wind or ice storms, light¬ 
ning, old age and, in the case of 
fruit trees, by overbearing. The fall¬ 
ing piece of trunk or limb should be 
propped up at once and tied tempora¬ 
rily with rope or wire—with bags or 
cloth forming a pad underneath— 
and if necessary be top-pruned to 
reduce the weight. The common 
method of putting an iron ring around 
each limb and fastening these to¬ 
gether with an iron rod is objection¬ 
able because it is quite certain to in¬ 
jure the bark, and also to be too 
small for future growth. Putting a 
straight iron rod through both pieces, 
with a nut on each end, allows the 
limb to sway, thus working the holes 
larger, weakening the support given, 
and causing more or less injury to 
the outer surface of the bark. The 
proper way is to provide a short iron 
bolt for each limb, of such size and 
length that it can be driven tight into 
the hole bored through the limb for 
it, and put on a large washer and nut, 
countersunk to the level of the wood 
and tarred over so that the bark will 
have a chance to grow over and 
hide the bolt head. These two short 
pieces are connected by a shorter one, 
before being inserted. Any black¬ 
smith can make the irons and thread 
the short ends in accordance with 
the measurements you give him. 
Protection from Insects 
The insects which attack trees may 
be classified under three heads, dis¬ 
tinguished by their methods of feed¬ 
ing. The “chewers” live on the foli¬ 
age which, when they are allowed to 
develop in numbers, they devour 
ravenously; the “suckers” fasten 
themselves to trunk, limbs, fruit or 
foliage and thrive on the juices which 
they absorb; and the “borers” attack 
the wood itself. 
The first class includes the cater¬ 
pillars, such as the tent caterpillar, 
browntail, tussock and gypsy moth 
larvae, and other pests such as the 
elm beetle and rosebug. They are 
fought with internal poisons such as 
arsenate of lead and Paris green. 
Spraying is the proper method, and 
as a full grown tree requires the use 
of quite an extensive outfit to cover 
it thoroughly, the best plan for the 
owner of but a few trees is to hire 
a competent professional sprayer to 
do the work for him. All caterpillar 
nests should be cut out clean and 
burned at once, after saturating them 
with kerosene. 
Suckers and Borers 
The sucking insects include the San 
Jose, oyster and other scales, and 
plant lice, such as the birch louse and 
similar aphides. As poison cannot 
be injected into the juices of the 
tree, these pests must be fought with 
contact sprays which kill them by 
corrosion or suffocation, filling up 
the pores through which they breathe. 
Lime-sulphur wash, miscible oils, 
kerosene and soap emulsions, besides 
special market preparations, are used 
for this purpose. Winter is the best 
time to spray for the worst of these 
enemies, the San Jose scale, as 
stronger solutions can then be used. 
The borers work in the wood of 
the tree, and are dangerous not so 
much for what they do themselves 
as for the opening they give to rot 
and disease germs. They include the 
maple borer, the pine tree borer, and 
the larvae of the leopard moth. They 
can be located, usually, by the tiny 
pile of fine sawdust which they throw 
out, or, in the case of some trees, by 
the excrudescence of gummy, sticky 
matter covering the entrance hole. 
The pine tree borer attacks the top 
shoot, which quickly turns brown and 
dies; the top should be cut off and 
burned to prevent his escape. The 
others can be suffocated with carbon 
bisulphide injected with a syringe. 
Stucco Effects With Metal Lath 
(Continued from page 30) 
Whatever the finish, it will be of 
short duration unless the materials 
and workmanship are of the best, 
as many a stucco wall, from which 
the surface coating has fallen away, 
bears eloquent witness. There are 
few classes of building work where 
the honesty and competency of the 
workmen are more important. 
The use of wood lath for exterior 
stucco is by no means advisable. Not 
only will the lath decay, but its alter¬ 
nate swelling and contraction, due to 
rain soaking through the stucco, will 
cause the latter to crack and fall off. 
In fact, the quality of wood lath now 
on the market is so inferior, and its 
saving in cost over metal lath is so 
slight, that even for interior plaster¬ 
ing it presents little advantage for any 
but the cheapest grade of work. 
From a standpoint of fire risk, 
also, the use of metal lath is a great 
step in advance. Obviously, the less 
wood one uses the less the risk from 
fire, particularly when the wood is 
in small sticks with rough surfaces 
that can catch every spark, and in 
places concealed from view. The ex¬ 
tent of losses from fire in America, 
as compared with European countries, 
is undoubtedly due, in large measure, 
to our use of wood lath and furring, 
even more, perhaps, than to our fre¬ 
quently employed frame construction. 
And here a comparison must be 
made between metal lath and hollow 
tile, as a backing for stucco. From 
the standpoint of resistance to fire, 
it cannot be denied that the advantage 
is in favor of the latter, provided it 
is used as the material of a solid 
wall, and not as a veneer applied to 
frame construction. A wall of hol¬ 
low tile or brick is undoubtedly a 
more permanent construction than 
one of wood, particularly at the 
present time, when framing timber 
is far from attaining the quality of 
former days. 
So far, however, as cost is con¬ 
cerned, the advantage is decidedly 
in favor of lath. A frame wall, with 
metal lath and cement stucco, costs 
approximately from one-third to one- 
fourth less than an 8" hollow tile 
wall, with the same finish. Taking 
into consideration the other parts of 
the structure, however, the difference 
is less, the saving being generally 
from six to eight per cent, of the total 
cost of the building, varying accord¬ 
ing to the locality and the condition 
of the market. As compared with 
shingle, stucco on metal lath is only 
slightly more expensive, and far more 
permanent than the other can ever 
hope to be. 
