HOUSE AND GARDEN 
August, 1913 
amongst mixed shrubbery, and it is 
not at all practicable for the bed to be 
prepared in this way, it is an easy mat¬ 
ter to dig holes where they are to go 
and place drainage, or at least a good 
shovelful of sand or gravel at the 
bottom of each. In any case, to be on 
the safe side, it is well to put a good 
handful of sand under each bulb when 
planting and to surround or cover the 
bulb to a depth of half an inch to an 
inch with the same material. The roots 
and top will have no difficulty whatso¬ 
ever in making their way through this 
porous wall, and it prevents standing 
water, and manure, fertilizer and any 
other possibly injurious substance in 
the soil from coming in contact with 
the bulb. Where lilies are to be 
grown either in a collection or for a 
mass effect by themselves, it usually 
pays to make a raised bed or border 
edged with turf, as this not only sets 
them off to better advantage but makes 
good drainage certain. 
The soil should be made very rich, 
and preferably slightly sandy. If 
nothing but a heavy loam or clayey 
soil is available, this may be lightened 
by the addition of wood or coal ashes, 
and sand or fine gravel, and by a heavy dressing of leaf mold or 
some similar light, porous material worked well down into it. 
Leichtlinii, Brozvnii, Batemanni are more particular sorts as to soil. 
The best materials with which to enrich the soil where lilies 
are to be planted — and it should be made rich if the best results 
are to be expected—are old, thoroughly rotted stable manure, the 
older the better, and bone dust; or coarse ground bone, if it is 
desired to prepare the soil so that it 
will need no further treatment for a 
number of years. Fresh manure and 
commercial fertilizers should not be 
used, as they are pretty sure to injure 
the bulbs. The best time for planting 
most of the lilies is in October, though 
they may be put in, especially in more 
Southern sections, or if there is a mild, 
late fall, in November. The most im¬ 
portant exceptions to this general rule 
are Madonna lily (L. candidum ), Ex- 
celsum . ( Testaceum) and golden 
banded Japan lilies (auratum ). These 
should be put in in August or Septem¬ 
ber, usually as soon as the bulbs are 
received if they are in a good plump 
condition. Where the bulbs are to be 
planted singly and it is not convenient 
to put manure into the ground, one can 
make a small hole (an earth augur or 
a post hole digger being good for the 
purpose) a foot and a half or so deep, 
and into the bottom of this put several 
inches of fine old manure, covered 
with several more of good top earth. 
Upon this put a trowelful or so of 
clean sand or of very fine gravel and 
plant the bulb on this. In damp situa¬ 
tions, the loosely-formed bulbs, such 
as speciosum and candidum, should be placed on their sides. 
The proper depth at which to plant will depend upon the 
variety and the nature of the soil, as they may be put an inch or 
so deeper in a light soil than in a heavy one. Variety rather than 
the size of the bulb determines the depth of planting, because 
some bulbs make their roots and next year’s bulb above the bulb 
that is planted, and some below. The former class, which in- 
L. Speciosum rubrum. A very hardy and a most re¬ 
liable lily, suitable for sun or shade, very handsome 
with its mottlings of crimson 
L. Canadense. Light 
orange spotted with 
brown 
The Madonna lily, or L. Candidum, is one of the oldest lilies, but 
beautiful in its pure white corolla and yellow anthers. It may 
be used singly or in groups 
L. Croceum does well in almost any soil. Id 
fits well in the garden border or placed! 
among shrubs 
