HOUSE AND GARDEN 
August, 1913 
83 
eludes auratum, the various speciosums, Brownii, croseum, Han- 
sonii and Batemanni, should be set so that the crown of the bulb 
will be four to six inches below the surface. Auratum should be 
placed from eight inches to a foot below the surface. The second 
class, which includes the Madonna lily, Canadense, Philadelphi- 
cum, tigrinum, Martagon, should be three to five inches below the 
surface, depending on the size of the individual bulb and the soil. 
After the first hard freeze, especially where the lily bed has 
been newly made, an efficient winter mulch should be put on. 
For this purpose old, dry, strawy manure or leaves raked up from 
the lawn or the street, kept in place by a few pine boughs or pieces 
of board, will be convenient. The covering should be from four 
inches to a foot in thickness, according to the severity of the 
climate, and should extend well beyond the edge of the bed. The 
newly-planted bulbs will have made no top growth by this time, 
but the covering is not to protect them from the frost so much as 
to prevent the ground from heaving and possibly displacing the 
bulbs, and injury to the new growth in the spring in case of a 
warm, early spell which starts the growth prematurely. In spring 
the mulch should be removed gradually, the last two or three 
inches being spaded into the soil to rot and to form a good main 
absorbing mulch on the surface of the ground. 
The only care required annually after this will be to give the 
proper mulching and to spade into the 
soil a little old manure or bone dust in 
the spring, cutting off clean the old 
tops when they begin to dry after the 
plants are through blooming, and put¬ 
ting on the winter mulch. 
Most of the lilies remain for years 
if unmolested, as they do not multiply so rapidly as the blooming 
bulbs. If you want to increase your supply of them, the small 
bulbs or “offsets” which are formed each year may be saved and 
planted out in a border or the flower garden, and in the course of 
two or three years they will reach blooming size. When for any 
reason the older bulbs are to be reset or moved, they should be 
taken up after the foliage has turned yellow when the plant is 
through blooming, and reset again at once. Do not dry them off 
and store them the way you would tulips or daffodils. 
It has been said of the lily family that “there are no poor rela¬ 
tives.” That is, that although they differ widely, each one seems 
to be quite perfect in itself. And this is quite true; nevertheless, 
certain desirable features such as color and character of bloom, 
height and so forth, should be looked for when we want to fit 
them into any scheme of planting which includes other things, and 
also to suit personal differences in taste. The following brief list, 
therefore, which includes those varieties which have proved most 
satisfactory, will be of use in making out the order for bulbs. 
Prices vary a good deal, from a dollar to seven dollars and a half 
a dozen, for the varieties mentioned below: 
Auratum (Golden banded lily of Japan)—Flowers white, spotted 
crimson, with a broad golden stripe running through the center 
of each petal. Flowers bell-shaped, with the ends of petals re¬ 
curved. Perhaps the handsomest 
of all the lilies and very fragrant; 
three to five feet high. 
Candidum (Annunciation or Ma¬ 
donna lily)—This is the best of 
the pure white lilies, stands full 
(Continued on page no) 
The lily at the left is auratum or the golden banded lily of Japan, a white lily, spotted with gold and with golden ribs—a very magnificent addi¬ 
tion to any garden with its great blossoms almost a foot across. At the right is the tiger lilv (L. Tigrinum ), for a long time a favorite with 
many. It grows anywhere and seems to resist most unfavorable conditions. Above is L. Testaceum. A lily of dull apricot shade with 
orange anthers 
