HOUSE AND GARDEN 
August, 
i9 T 3 
IOI 
left there on the ground), but in the hot, dry weather of August 
it is often necessary to take every precaution in order to secure 
success in either transplanting or setting out plants. In the first 
place, see to it that the large outer leaves are cut back about one- 
half, and if the roots happen to be long and straggly, cut these 
back when it is necessary, in order to get them into such shape 
that they will not be crowded and jammed together when setting 
out. Wet the soil thoroughly where the plants that are to be 
transplanted are growing, some hours before you want to take 
them up, as dry earth will crumble away from the little seedling 
rootlets and leave them without protection from sun and drying 
air. If the soil is so dry that it is necessary to use water, pour 
about a half a pint or a pint in the bottom of each hole where the 
plant is to be set before planting. Do not waste your time and 
strength by setting out a row and then going over it and spilling 
a little water around on the surface. In dry weather, besides mak¬ 
ing the plants as firm in the soil as possible in setting them out, 
it always pays to take the additional insurance of going back over 
the row and pressing with the 
balls of the feet on either side 
of the newly-set plants, bear¬ 
ing down with all one’s 
weight. In case it is dry, hot 
weather with a hot sun the 
plants will be very greatly 
benefited if they can be shaded 
a day or two after setting out. 
This is done readily where 
only a few dozen plants are 
being put out by taking a half 
sheet of newspaper and plac¬ 
ing it over each plant, in the 
form of a tent, holding it 
down with a little earth or a 
couple of small stones. One 
other thing to keep in mind in 
connection with late planting 
is that any delay which is 
likely to occur is very much 
more likely to be a serious dis¬ 
advantage than with early planting. Vegetables which are planted 
as much as two weeks apart in the spring may be within a few 
days of each other in maturing, but a delay of two weeks in 
getting in a last sowing of beans or the fall crop of cabbage or 
cauliflower may mean 
the difference between 
success and absolute 
failure. For the last 
plantings of vegeta¬ 
bles early varieties are 
generally used, as 
these mature more 
quickly and there is, 
of course, more or less 
chance of being 
caught by frost. 
The following veg¬ 
etables may be plant¬ 
ed after you receive 
this month’s issue of 
House & Garden, 
with the reasonable 
expectancy that in an 
average season they 
will mature—that is, 
of course, assuming 
that the ground is in 
a good condition, sufficiently moist to give things a prompt start, 
and containing enough plant food in some forms which are imme¬ 
diately available — food that is either the remnant of the spring’s 
top dressing of manure, which by this time should be in the finest 
possible condition, or by a second application of some good gar¬ 
den fertilizer containing a fair percentage — three or four — of 
available nitrogen. In any case, a quick start and strong, early 
growth may be assured by a light top dressing of nitrate of soda 
as soon as the seedlings get well started, or a week or so after the 
plants have been set. 
One of the most ordinarily neglected of the fall crops is beans. 
There is no time to lose if you would have a supply of these for 
the end of your garden season this year. The earliest varieties 
may be planted up to as late as the first of August in the vicinity 
of New York, but it is better to get them in before that date if 
you can do so. If the soil is dry, plant three or four inches deep, 
a quick way being to mark out your rows eighteen to twenty 
inches apart, go over each marked line with the plow attachment 
for furrowing and then drill 
them in thinly with the regu¬ 
lar seed drill in the bottom of 
this trench. This will get 
them down into nice fresh, 
moist earth if there is any to 
be found anywhere, and if you 
will then use your wheel hoe 
with the single wheel and the 
plows arranged for covering 
you can give the seeds an 
extra firming into the soil and 
cover them at the depth de¬ 
sired at the same operation. 
Stringless Green Pod, Boun¬ 
tiful, Full Measure (green) 
and Brittle Wax and Rust 
Proof Golden (yellow) are 
good sorts for late planting. 
The two former, put in as 
late as August 15th, will fre- 
quentlv come through in time, 
but one is taking the risk, of course, of a hard, early frost. 
Beets also may be planted as late as the first part of August, 
and unless there is indication that there will be sufficient left over 
from the second or third spring planting, you should sow a few 
rows now in order to 
be sure of having 
some thro u g h the 
winter. They will 
reach a good size be¬ 
fore killing weather, 
as they continue to 
grow until ’quite* Rte 
and wijl Jje’.rjnldh‘fyff-* 
ter°, in\^ qmflit\G .titan 
oyergcdwn roots from 
an early planting. 
They should be put in 
half,an.Inch* to an inch 
deep, ttccWffifig'to .the 
condition ,o*f 
and if only a fe\y dte* 
to be put in and sown' 
by hand it will gain a 
few days’ time to soak 
the seeds a day or so 
(Continued on page 
118) 
A metal pipe line fitted at intervals for hose connections and supported 
on posts is convenient for watering the small garden 
In setting out the late plantings of vegetables be careful to firm them well in the soil, thus 
conserving the moisture as much as possible 
