cm 
February, 1913 
HOUSE AND GARDEN 
123 
Squash — White or Yellow Scalloped 
(bush, extra early) ; Summer Crook- 
neck, Delicata, Fordhook (second early, 
vine) ; Hubbard, Boston Marrow, The 
Delicious, Heart 0’ Gold, Simmes Blue 
Hubbard (winter). 
Tomatoes —Chalk’s Jewel, Early Free¬ 
dom, Bonny Best, Earliana, Dwarf 
Stone, Dwarf Giant, Livingstone’s 
Globe, Matchless. 
Turnips —Early White Milan, Petrowski 
(early), Amber Globe, Purple Top- 
White Globe, White Egg. 
How Much to Plant 
0 far, so good, but it is still a problem 
to determine exactly how much seed 
of each variety you will need. While some 
seeds will keep for several years, it is gen¬ 
erally better to get fresh ones every season. 
First of all, get the size of your garden 
“over-all.” Then figure up the amount 
of space each vegetable—not each variety 
—is to be allotted, taking the more impor¬ 
tant ones, i. e., those which you care most 
about, first. Vegetables occupying about 
three feet to the row are pole beans, to¬ 
matoes, peas, potatoes, cabbage, cauli¬ 
flower, egg-plant and Brussels sprouts. 
They require two feet to the row. Pars¬ 
nips, bush beans and salsify may be given 
a foot and a half; in rich soil, however, 
the beans will require about two feet. Let¬ 
tuce, beets, carrots, onions, leek and tur¬ 
nips require from twelve to fifteen inches. 
The “vine” plants, such as cucumbers, 
squash, melons, both musk and water, re¬ 
quire from four to six feet, and celery, if 
to be banked up with earth, will require 
about four feet. It can, however, usually 
be set out where some early crop, such 
as lettuce, early turnips or peas, has been 
removed. 
If you find you will not have room for 
proper pruning and trimming 
Judicious pruning and proper care do much 
toward producing fine fruit 
all these things, remember that potatoes, 
late cabbage, turnips, peppers, celery, 
watermelons, onions and parsnips all 
stand shipping well, and that you can get 
these at your grocer’s in better quality 
than such perishable things as sweet corn, 
lettuce or peas, which must be gathered 
fresh from the garden to be in perfect 
condition. The diagram of a small garden 
will give you a suggestion as to how your 
own problem may be worked out. In de¬ 
ciding on what varieties of each vegetable 
to use, remember that many of the extra 
early sorts, such as smooth peas, early 
white corn and string beans are not as 
large or as delicious as the later varieties, 
and as there frequently is only a few days’ 
difference between the two in the time of 
maturing, only enough of the former 
should be planted to assure one or two 
pickings. Moreover, most of the early 
varieties “go by” very quickly and if you 
are careless in choosing them or think 
too much about the first few weeks of the 
season and too little about the last, you are 
likely to find yourself with a supply of 
tough, over-ripe things on your hands 
which even the chickens will refuse. 
The Ice Crop 
VERY small country place within 
reach of a lake or ice-pond and also 
subject to the seasonal holdup of the local 
ice trust, should have its own small ice¬ 
house. It need neither take up much room 
nor be an unsightly object. A little house 
twelve feet by twelve will hold several 
tons, and, aside from being filled, requires 
no attention throughout the year. The 
walls should be made double with a dead 
air space of several inches between them. 
The spaces do not require any filling with 
sawdust as the air itself is a non-conductor 
of heat. If you have to hire labor for the 
filling with ice, see to it that it is done as 
soon as the ice is thick enough, as nine or 
ten inches of the first freezing, clear and 
hard, will keep longer than twelve or four¬ 
teen inches of half frozen slush, etc. Each 
layer should be tightly packed with saw¬ 
dust in every chink, to prevent the leaving 
of air spaces that might cause the saw¬ 
dust put over the top to run down through 
later, leaving exposed spots on the surface. 
Pruning and Spraying 
RACTICALLY the only work which 
can be done outside at this time of 
the year about the garden and grounds, is 
such spraying and pruning as has not al¬ 
ready been done. For the benefit of new 
readers I repeat briefly some suggestions 
given before. Apple trees and other fruit 
trees plagued with the San Jose scale 
should be sprayed thoroughly, covered all 
over with lime sulphur wash, extra strong 
for winter use. or with a diluted miscible 
oil, made for the purpose. 
In pruning cut out all branches that 
cross or rub each other, and if they are 
over two inches in diameter be sure to 
paint over the wound with coal tar. Any 
broken or diseased parts should be cut 
out and treated in the same way, and any 
holes or decaying spots cut out cleanly 
to live wood and the wound filled with 
cement, first applying a coat of thin coal 
tar to soak into the wood. The surface 
of the filling should also be covered, to 
prevent its becoming weather cracked. 
In spite of reminders and directions we 
keep putting such things off, and the result 
is often another season of poor fruit. Re¬ 
member that much can be done in the way 
of planning ahead, even though the actual 
work on the garden may now be limited. 
An illustration of the relative extent to which 
apple tree pruning should be carried 
